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East Arete 
Mackenzie's Arete 
West Arete 

East Arete 

3rd

   
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Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 3rd [details]
FA: B.Putnam, J.N.Newell, H.C.Mansfield - June 10, 1923
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 17, 2006

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Description 

A really fun route with a great finish.

Scramble up boulders in the righthand chute on the southeast side of the peak. This becomes increasingly steeper and narrower until it reaches the shoulder of the arete proper. Scramble along the basically horizontal knife-edged section to the summit pyramid. A chute on the left brings you onto the miniscule summit.


Location 

Approach
Find a way to Sam Mack Lake, either from Sam Mack Meadow by heading north and then around to the left, or from 3rd Lake by hiking up to the Meadow and bearing right before reaching it. Pass the lake on the left, then head right into a gully which will bring you out onto the shoulder which leads to the start of the route.

Descent
Retrace your steps.


Protection 

3rd Class



Photos of East Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Owen on the East Arete in 1984, Mt. Sill behind.

Chris Owen on the East Arete in 1984, Mt. Sill beh...

Melody Wong and Fred Batliner scrambling up the ridge

Melody Wong and Fred Batliner scrambling up the ri...


Comments on East Arete Add Comment
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By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Aug 2, 2012

Climbed this way back in 2002. Really enjoyable. We had seven on the summit at one time!