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Mt. Russell
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloody Corner  T 
East Arete T 
Fishhook ArĂȘte T 
Mithril Dihedral T 
South Slope T 
Star Trekkin' T 
Western Front T 

East Arete 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: Norman Clyde - 24 June 1926
Page Views: 8,746
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Steve Larson on East Ridge of Russell. Does this l...

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  • Description 

    Day 1, hike from Whitney Portal to camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake.

    Day 2 Do climb.

    Day 3 Hike back to Whitney Portal.

    Ascend the scree slope north of the lake to the Russell-Carillon Col. Head West up the ridge, keeping to the right where necessary to reach the East summit of Russell. Traverse the summit ridge, mostly on the right until reaching the West summit.

    Location 

    Descend back down the East Ridge and scree to Upper Boy Scout Lake.

    Protection 

    Can be soloed.


    Photos of East Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Owen on the summit of Russell. Great Western Divid...
    Owen on the summit of Russell. Great Western Divid...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Whitney from the East Ridge of Russell.  Not...
    Mount Whitney from the East Ridge of Russell. Not...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Owen on the East Ridge. Joe O'Connor - Octob...
    Chris Owen on the East Ridge. Joe O'Connor - Octob...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The East Arete and North face of Mt Russell, seen ...
    The East Arete and North face of Mt Russell, seen ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Good exposure looking off the north side of the Ea...
    Good exposure looking off the north side of the Ea...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The East Ridge and North (or Northeast) Face of Mt...
    The East Ridge and North (or Northeast) Face of Mt...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan on the ridge, roughly halfway to the summit
    Ryan on the ridge, roughly halfway to the summit
    Rock Climbing Photo: Duke is the tiny speck towards the right. This is ...
    Duke is the tiny speck towards the right. This is ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the East Ridge from near the east sum...
    Looking down the East Ridge from near the east sum...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching Upper Boy Scout Lake
    Approaching Upper Boy Scout Lake
    Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of Mt Russell after climbing the East Arete...
    Summit of Mt Russell after climbing the East Arete...
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the way to the East Summit via the East Ridge. ...
    On the way to the East Summit via the East Ridge. ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Russell, Tulainyo Lake, and Carillon from the East...
    Russell, Tulainyo Lake, and Carillon from the East...
    Rock Climbing Photo: View from the east summit
    View from the east summit
    Rock Climbing Photo: Duke on the East Arete of Russell
    Duke on the East Arete of Russell
    Rock Climbing Photo: View of Whitney
    View of Whitney
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Crow descending the East Ridge.
    Jeff Crow descending the East Ridge.

    Comments on East Arete Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tavis Ricksecker
    From: Bishop, ca
    Jul 13, 2007

    More accurate description of how most people do the route might be:

    Day 1, hike past upper Boyscout Lake, do route, and descend back to car.

    It's actually pretty mellow done in a day.
    By Chris Owen
    Administrator
    From: Big Bear Lake
    Dec 7, 2007

    Speak for yourself Tavis. IMHO, people who do car-to-car just don't like being in the mountains, but hey, I'm an old-timer.
    By Tavis Ricksecker
    From: Bishop, ca
    Apr 5, 2008

    You make a good point that the camping up there is very nice. I just meant that doing it car-to-car is by no means exceptionally difficult or overly exhausting.
    By Dennis
    Jul 22, 2008

    Duke and myself descended down the East Arete after climbing Fishhook. If you camp at upper boy scout, the descent brings you right by camp on your way out back to the car.

    Great way to get in two different routes in a day. Fun and exposed, definitely soloable.
    By Chris Owen
    Administrator
    From: Big Bear Lake
    Oct 1, 2008

    What's this obsession with cars ;-) ?
    By Sam Page
    From: Orange County, CA
    Nov 15, 2009

    Climbed this route in 14+ hours car-to-car in October 2009. Here is the trip report
    By RAZORsharp
    From: Carlsbad CA
    Jun 26, 2014
    rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

    I would never do the hike up to this climb, just to scramble to the summit. best if used as a descent from one of the technical climbs, if you are doing car to car or camping at upper boy scout lake, which is what we did. incredible exposure with cool views of all major peaks in the surrounding area.
    By Anfarwal
    From: Denver, CO
    Jul 8, 2014

    Did this as the descent from Fishhook. Definitely stay on the ridge as much as possible; we stayed more north off the ridge and it turned into some sketchy exposed moves. Expect lots of scree/sand on the descent. Lots and lots.

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