East and Northeast Buttress Approach
North and northeast sides
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This area encompasses a large portion of Devil's Tower that is accessable via the East and Northeast buttress approaches. Everything from offwidth to finger cracks can be found here. Most routes are of high quality with sustained straight-in climbing. On the East side of the tower looms a large roof system that cuts across the sheer East face of the tower. To the right of these roofs is the Belle Fouche buttress which forms a prominent protrusion that ledges out halfway up the tower. This buttress marks, more or less, the left end of the routes accessable from this appoach. The right end is at the terminus of the ramp below the north face. Quality climbs of note include Belle Fouche buttress, McCarthy's North Face, and New Wave. From the Teacher's Lounge ledge there are several great climbs including Patent Pending and Assembly Line.
From the lot follow the paved trail around the North side of the tower. The trail dips low into the woods and then climbs back into view of the tower. Hike past a bench and before a large boulder start looking for a faint trail that is sometimes cairned. The trail winds up to the notch that separates the base of the east face from the northeast. At the notch the better defined trail goes up steps to the right to the routes below teacher's ledge lounge and continues on broken ledges to all the north face routes. The less defined trail is so because there are less quality routes and abundant poison ivy. To reach routes on and near Belle Fouche buttress ford the ivy and scramble up and across slabs to the base.
Weather station 0.5 miles from here
20 Total Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East and Northeast Buttress Approach:
New Wave 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Broken Tree 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 270'
Buckspeck 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Everlasting 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Surfer Girl 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b WY
: Devil's Tower
: East and Northeast Buttress...
Surfer Girl is a very open dihedral with a finger crack that you will milk for every bit of purchase it can give, even as the flaring tip jams and smearing feet push you towards air time. Good locks at intervals and excellent protection for most of the route make this demanding line actually seem doable. Work through several difficult sections to catch a rest on a ledge about halfway up. Continue up a short section of difficult wide fingers until the crack opens to hands before a traverse right ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
Local Information for East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Big rock... reeeeeealy big...
The East face of Devils Tower
Looking down from teachers lounge, broken tree is ...
North East Devil's Tower Dec.2012
|Comments on East and Northeast Buttress Approach
By Barrett Cooper
Sep 10, 2002
The way we were told to find the trail for the approach was wonderful. From the parking lot take the right(counterclockwise) paved path that leads you under Durrance and follow it to the USPS information sign for the fallen tower. From there walk 70 paces, the trail leads up to the left. It works every time and if your paces are smaller than mine the trail is ~70 paces at a point where the paved path starts going back up after dropping down a hill.
By CURT LOVE
Sep 30, 2004
Dear Friends,I am leaving today, just for the winter. For that I am a little sad. I hope everyone keeps crankin' & and having fun.Remember climbing is not to feed the EGO but a chance to be a good partner and enjoy Life around the corner from the manstream lifestyles. I have climbed in a few areas besides the ones in SD WY but here is home and in my opion really really great!! In our time right now there is so much BS already it seems odd to me that sometimes we fight in a very childish way. Lets all stand together and help one another not push one another down and judge each other for the small things. I know I am not a Saint, and that keeps me in check. Everyone make mistakes, hopefully we can all learn from them? Well anyway as we sometimes say, "I'M OUT"!I love this place and all the people in it, I may not show it sometimes but I think and pray for our community and resorces in it, all the time. I consider myself one of the Lucky Ones to have grown up here and in the process make many Lifelong Friends.To all of you out there short, tall, strong or weak, I LOVE YOU.Love Curt
By Andy Busse
From: Rapid City, SD
Oct 1, 2004
Take it easy Curt, Have a good off-season.We look forward to hearing from you time to time....Andy Busse
By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2007
It is possible to descend from the top of the tower via Assembly Line. Down climb the final 5.0 chimney of that route and look east for rap anchors.