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Easily Flakey 

5.6 R

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
FA: Gore '77
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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First time at NRG and first climb.

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Description 

Fun Route
Heavily Guided
Route wanders right after tree 25 feet up (the R rated section)
rest of the route follows obvious flake system to the top where a mini roof is met and mantled.


Location 

Obvious corner/flake system w/tree 25 ft up just west of access point.


Protection 

takes good but BIG pro, #3s and #4s.
Bit runout in middle section where you foot traverse on good holds.



Photos of Easily Flakey Slideshow Add Photo
Rachel on Easily Flakey.

Rachel on Easily Flakey.

steve on (TP). easy trad lead. past tree traverse right to gain flake. use long runners to lessen rope drag!

BETA PHOTO: steve on (TP). easy trad lead. past tree traverse ...

tiny little roof before topo.

tiny little roof before topo.

Easily Flaky 5.6

Easily Flaky 5.6

Easily Flaky 5.6

Easily Flaky 5.6

Climbing Easily Flakey

Climbing Easily Flakey

Easily Flakey

Easily Flakey


Comments on Easily Flakey Add Comment
Show which comments
By MPuser10840
Administrator
From: Erlangen, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 PG13

Very polished route. I'm glad I did it, and won't do it again. The traverse was fun though! You take a stroll away from your gear for 20 feet or so with a great view of your belayer a good 30 feet below you. This can be a little freaky, until you remember that it's a 5.0 traverse. ;) This is where it get's its R rating, but falling isn't likely.

By chris berry
From: Beckley WV
Feb 9, 2011

the R rating on this one isn't a reason to pass it up. Protection is ample, but insure a good placement before the traverse!

By Brett Jarrett
From: Milton, WV
Mar 15, 2011

Mike Williams' new guide calls this a 5.7 and drops the 'R' rating, though he does refer to the traverse as a '5.0 R.' This route sees the most traffic of pretty much any route in the gorge so plan to wait in line on a nice weather weekend.

By Troy Russell
From: Fenton, MI
Feb 9, 2012

Great route!

Not bad at all. Even fun for cool down.

By Troy Russell
From: Fenton, MI
Feb 9, 2012

Instead of going right at the tree, you can make it up to about the second flake just going straight up from the tree.

Probably turns the route to 5.10~, but still fun to follow flake.