Easily Amused 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Chris Smith, 11/96 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on May 24, 2007 |
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Ryan Nicholson starts up 'Easily Ammused' 5.7 in f...
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Description Not a particularly memorable route, but the moves are good. It's just short and somewhat non-descript. Climb the face on mostly crimpy holds, past an undercling and on to more of the same. It reminds me of the first part of Rise and Shine (5.7); however, the second half of that route is the better part. A good route to keep you climbing while you wait for other climbs to open up.
Location Next route right of the start of Glory Jeans (5.6).
Protection 3 bolts to quick clips.
| Comments on Easily Amused |
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By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Dec 24, 2008 rating: 5.7
| When doing this route there will be a jug about four feet to your left that is tempting, do not go to this it makes it much harder. But this route is a lot of fun. |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Apr 14, 2009 rating: 5.7
| The right quick link on this route could be replaced its worn more than halfway though and the left one ir reaching halfway through. i will mention this to Jim Shimberg and see what can be done |
By Jcomeau From: Hopkinton, MA Jun 6, 2011
| What is the bolted upper part of this? |
By S. Neoh Jun 6, 2011
| That would be Rubicon, listed here too. I thought the crux of Rubicon is pretty tough - hard 5.10 but your mileage may vary. |
By Jcomeau From: Hopkinton, MA Jun 9, 2011
| I found it after I posted. |
By J Meagher Oct 29, 2012 rating: 5.6
| Really fun face climbng on great crimps in the first half and some nice jugs on the upper part. The quick-clips aren't that great though; both are about halfway worn through, and although they are still useable, they probably won't be in about a year or so. About the upper half, rubicon; this is not listed in the newest guidebook, so it must be fairly new. I talked to some guys who had just done it, and they said that the crux is basically one really big deadpoint about 3/4 of the way up. They also mentioned that this felt significantly harder than espresso and was probably about 5.10d. |
By S. Neoh Oct 29, 2012
| The extension, Rubicon, is here - www.mountainproject.com/v/rubicon/106573480 . Yes, it is fairly new. And, yes, I would agree for shorties like me, Rubicon feels about .10d. Some holds might have broken off or gotten smaller since I was last on it. If one were to lead thru Easily Amused to reach Rubicon, falling off the crux move and possibly hitting the ledge is a consideration, with rope stretch. I do not think Rubicon is poorly bolted, it is just the nature of the route. If I were to lead Rubicon again, I will probably bring my partner up to the ledge and lead it as a separate pitch from Easily Amused. |
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