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Easily Amused 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chris Smith, 11/96
Page Views: 2,640
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (149)
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Ryan Nicholson starts up 'Easily Ammused' 5.7 in f...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not a particularly memorable route, but the moves are good. It's just short and somewhat non-descript.

Climb the face on mostly crimpy holds, past an undercling and on to more of the same. It reminds me of the first part of Rise and Shine (5.7); however, the second half of that route is the better part.

A good route to keep you climbing while you wait for other climbs to open up.

Location 

Next route right of the start of Glory Jeans (5.6).

Protection 

3 bolts to quick clips.


Photos of Easily Amused Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun little climb
Fun little climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Dovi Hirsch on Easily Amused
Dovi Hirsch on Easily Amused

Comments on Easily Amused Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

When doing this route there will be a jug about four feet to your left that is tempting, do not go to this it makes it much harder. But this route is a lot of fun.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The right quick link on this route could be replaced its worn more than halfway though and the left one ir reaching halfway through. i will mention this to Jim Shimberg and see what can be done
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Jun 6, 2011

What is the bolted upper part of this?
By S. Neoh
Jun 6, 2011

That would be Rubicon, listed here too. I thought the crux of Rubicon is pretty tough - hard 5.10 but your mileage may vary.
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Jun 9, 2011

I found it after I posted.
By J Meagher
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Really fun face climbng on great crimps in the first half and some nice jugs on the upper part. The quick-clips aren't that great though; both are about halfway worn through, and although they are still useable, they probably won't be in about a year or so.

About the upper half, rubicon; this is not listed in the newest guidebook, so it must be fairly new. I talked to some guys who had just done it, and they said that the crux is basically one really big deadpoint about 3/4 of the way up. They also mentioned that this felt significantly harder than espresso and was probably about 5.10d.
By S. Neoh
Oct 29, 2012

The extension, Rubicon, is here - mountainproject.com/v/rubicon/... . Yes, it is fairly new.
And, yes, I would agree for shorties like me, Rubicon feels about .10d. Some holds might have broken off or gotten smaller since I was last on it. If one were to lead thru Easily Amused to reach Rubicon, falling off the crux move and possibly hitting the ledge is a consideration, with rope stretch. I do not think Rubicon is poorly bolted, it is just the nature of the route. If I were to lead Rubicon again, I will probably bring my partner up to the ledge and lead it as a separate pitch from Easily Amused.

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