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Earwax Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antidote S 
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 
Domestic Violence T 
Earwax T 
Killslug S 
Raggedy Andy S 
Raggedy Anne S 
Sideshow S 
Slugshow S 
Soul on Ice S 
Young Cynics S 

Earwax Wall  


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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008
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Description 

This wall is semi-shaded and can be a good summer option. The rock here lends itself to positive face climbing and most of the routes are just under vertical or overhung. There are at least a dozen quality routes here. They range from the friendly, positive Sideshow (.10c/d) and Black Flag (.10+) to the micro-edging testpieces like Soul on Ice (.12c) and the ultra-thin The Antidote (.13-). Since when were .12c and .13- "testpieces" in this day and age, you ask? Well, since you tried them at Index! There are a couple of cracks as well: Domestic Violence, Earwax, and Killslug.

Getting There 

Located on the far left side of the main upper wall. Approach via the upper wall trail. At one point the trail surmounts a step via a fixed rope. The Biology of Small Appliances (.12) arete is the first feature encountered. It should be noted that this continues to be a drop zone for trash from *ahem* "4WD motor sports enthusiasts" which consists mostly of Bud Light (TM) and Natural Ice (TM) cans but can include the occasional truck canopy or live firecracker. People have also allegedly been shot at while climbing on the Upper Walls in the past, although (luckily!) this does not seem to be a continuing issue. Use caution on the trail, particularly under the Tempitchuous area, which is a little ways before reaching Earwax wall proper.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Earwax Wall:
The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   
Sideshow   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 80'   
Earwax   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Earwax Wall

Featured Route For Earwax Wall
Earwax follows the crack, but is mostly face moves...

Earwax 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WA : Index : ... : Earwax Wall
Slightly dicey climbing off the ground leads better protected but thin climbing through discontinuous cracks to a steep section through a bulge. The technical crux is just below the roof, then you have a decent rest before the pumpy crux. One can stop at the Young Cynics anchor at 75'. The original first pitch went another 55' to a higher anchor with a harder crux, making a 130', stellar thin crack pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

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