|Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
One of the new-school lines at Poke-O, and a fine one at that. This fully bolted route is quintessential dihedral climbing bookended by some of the most rewarding slab/arete climbing on the cliff. Avoid this route on sunny, summer days, as the black rock and oven-like quality of the corner can melt shoe rubber and make you go blind!!
Begin the route by climbing up a 10' blocky corner to the beginning of the first pitch. Climb the technical arete protected by 5 bolts to a set of chain anchors on a nice belay ledge (5.9+).
This next pitch is the crux. Leave the belay and climb out left over a small, but steep roof using some high steps, a few hidden holds and some muscle. Continue up the corner past 11 bolts (11b) and an alternate belay ledge to the base of the final pitch ("The Raspberry Pitch") and another set of chain anchors.
If asked, some may say the final pitch is the technical crux of the route despite it being a full number grade easier (10b). Whichever opinion you side with, get ready for some fairly sequential, blunt arete climbing in an airy situation.
Finish the route at set of chain anchors. One 60m rope with three rappels will get you back to the ground.
about 500 feet to the right of the Fastest Gun corner is a clearing with three bolted lines (this wall is called "The Pilgrim Wall", and serves up some fine mixed bolt and gear routes from 10a to 11d, the best being a 3-pitch journey called "Pilgrims Progess" at 11c)) that start off the ground. Just beyond these routes to the right is a blocky corner with a bolted arete that starts about 20 feet up. This is the first pitch of Earthly Nights.
QDs only! Brings a few double length runners and some locking biners for the bolted anchors.
|By Mark Trotta|
From: Latham, NY
Aug 25, 2013
I followed all three pitches of this. Great climbing. A lot of poke-o characteristics. Very hard. Very sustained. Very well protected.