Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7 year itch T,S 
Air Male T,S 
Arch Crack T,S 
Bloody Mary T 
Borderline T 
Bushido (Pitch 1 only) T 
C-Tips S 
Casual Observer T,S 
Certified Raw T 
Chik'n Garbonzo T 
Cirrhosis T 
Cooney-Norton T 
Cosmopolitan Wall T 
Earthly Night S 
Fastest Gun, The T 
Firing Line T 
FM, The T 
Gamesmanship T 
Grapes of Wrath T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Green Onion T 
Group Therapy T 
Hang 'Em High T,S 
It Don't Come Easy T 
Junior Varsity T 
La Spirale T 
Ladder T 
Lost Chance aka The Natural  T 
Macho T,S 
Maestro T 
Mayflower T 
Menace To Sobriety S 
Morning Star T 
P.T. Pillar T 
Pandemonium T 
Paralysis T 
Phase III T 
Pilgrim's Progress T 
Pillar T 
Psalm 32 T,S 
Psychosis T 
Puppies on Edge T 
Ragtime T 
Raptor's Sream S 
Rapture, The T,S 
Salad Days S 
Scallion T 
Snake Slide T 
Snatch, The T 
Son of a Mother T,S 
Son of Slime T 
Southern Hospitality p1 T 
Static Cling T,S 
Sting, The T 
Sunburst Arete T 

Earthly Night 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Patrick Munn, Dominic Eisinger-- 2002
Page Views: 2,071
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Oct 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 2. Photo by Ed Keller.

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    One of the new-school lines at Poke-O, and a fine one at that. This fully bolted route is quintessential dihedral climbing bookended by some of the most rewarding slab/arete climbing on the cliff. Avoid this route on sunny, summer days, as the black rock and oven-like quality of the corner can melt shoe rubber and make you go blind!!

    Begin the route by climbing up a 10' blocky corner to the beginning of the first pitch. Climb the technical arete protected by 5 bolts to a set of chain anchors on a nice belay ledge (5.9+).

    This next pitch is the crux. Leave the belay and climb out left over a small, but steep roof using some high steps, a few hidden holds and some muscle. Continue up the corner past 11 bolts (11b) and an alternate belay ledge to the base of the final pitch ("The Raspberry Pitch") and another set of chain anchors.

    If asked, some may say the final pitch is the technical crux of the route despite it being a full number grade easier (10b). Whichever opinion you side with, get ready for some fairly sequential, blunt arete climbing in an airy situation.

    Finish the route at set of chain anchors. One 60m rope with three rappels will get you back to the ground.


    Location 

    about 500 feet to the right of the Fastest Gun corner is a clearing with three bolted lines (this wall is called "The Pilgrim Wall", and serves up some fine mixed bolt and gear routes from 10a to 11d, the best being a 3-pitch journey called "Pilgrims Progess" at 11c)) that start off the ground. Just beyond these routes to the right is a blocky corner with a bolted arete that starts about 20 feet up. This is the first pitch of Earthly Nights.

    Protection 

    QDs only! Brings a few double length runners and some locking biners for the bolted anchors.


    Comments on Earthly Night Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Mark Trotta
    From: Latham, NY
    Aug 25, 2013

    I followed all three pitches of this. Great climbing. A lot of poke-o characteristics. Very hard. Very sustained. Very well protected.