This route begins just left of China Doll (the obvious 5.13 dihedral) on the center of the Lost Angel formation. 2 variations of the first pitch exist, the one on the left is recommended and is a VERY stiff 12a or 12b. If you feel ok on this pitch, you'll do fine on the rest of the route. The 2nd pitch has a few moves of 12a, then some sustained slab climbing to another anchor. The final 2 pitches are 5.11 slab and excellent.
I just got on this route today for the first time, and although I loved every inch of it, it really is tough. I had just climbed Sargasso Sea (another 12a in Dream Canyon), and the first two pitches of Earth Voyage were far more difficult. Make sure you e up on your steep slab technique before throwing yourself at the second and third pitches! :)
I just did this route yesterday and will say that it is one of the best multipitch sport climbs i've ever been on! Pitches 1 and 2 are both solid 12a, especially for the onsight,and pitch 3 is more steep slab with a couple tricky moves (watch out for the loose flake just above bolt #1 on pitch 3, if it came off it would fall right on top of your belayer). Pitch 4 (10b) is nothing to get excited about, but it does make for an airy ending to such a fabulous climb. Three raps straight down with a 60m rope (final rap from anchors at top of pitch two cuts it very close!)
Maybe I was tired, maybe the rock had reached a scorching 95 degrees by this time of the day, or maybe (insert some other excuse)... but after onsighting the first pitch, I had to yard on the draw at the crux of pitch 2 while following and neither my partner or I were ever able to work out the moves. Hard slabbin' on the pitch after that which felt harder than the 11d 3rd pitch climbin'. Cool roof moves on pitch 4. Anyway, one of the best multi-pitch sport routes I've ever done (screw El Portrero Chico) though the 2nd pitch is pretty tough.
John, the honer Kiwi, and I did all 4 pitches on saturday - one of the best routes we've done in the Boulder area. The first pitch is pumpy but pales in quality to the second pitch - so keep going! The second pitch is aesthetic in terms of rock quality, moves, and its sustained nature. Get on it early though so you avoid being blinded while pulling nubs and laybacking/underclinging tips.
I did the first two pitches of this route last weekend. Great fun. I had done the first pitch a few years ago, possibly with the the original poster Mr. Wehner hisself. I also made it up the second pitch this time, which I don't think I've been on before. I pulled through the roof okay but was bewildered by the slab beyond, despite thinking that I was good on slabs. I made it through after grabbing a draw and choosing a new line. I was delighted to see my second make the same route-finding error, heh heh. Since copious beta is the raison d'etre of this site, what worked for me and my second on the 2nd pitch was to keep our feet on the ramp all the way to the tippy top of the horn that the ramp ends at.
Kevin's beta on the 2nd pitch is right on with my experience - however, I watched a few weeks ago as Ken Duncan botched my sequence and fired straight up from about half way across the ramp - I need to go back and see if there are holds .... Kevin, you should do the 3rd pitch as well - it is outstanding and sustained. Looks like mellow slab from the belay atop the 2nd pitch but comes at you a bit harder than it looks.
Wanted to suggest a stout variation on Earth Voyage - Eric Nienhouse and I strung the first 3 pitches together as one in the fall - ~160 - rope drag is an issue, but with selective long slings and clip omissions, it should be smoother - great pump and variety within one pitch.
Who is the A-hole who does this site anyway. Whoever it is, they seem to not know a dang thing about the first ascentionists. It is well known that Bob Horan put up this and most all of the routes in dream canyon. Get it straight, jerk wade.
Hey Asshole Coward, another site maintainer here. I'm puzzled by the affliction of people like you whose instincts are to bitch and moan instead of actually contributing to society. Didn't you send us an email a long time ago?
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 12:52:48 -0600 NAME: Jim StevensEMAIL: Meadroon@aol.com
COMMENTS Your FA: unknowns is lame, especially in Dream Canyon. Everyone knows tghat Bob Horan put up those 4 pitch routes, how ignorant especially when it in the references you qoute, Another proagated site from what I'm starting to see.
An argument for purging all of the AC carping and squabbling is that so much of what is posted here simply falls into public view. I think that Myke indicated something like 50,000 hits a month on this site. In principle at least, that should incduce us to try a put the best face forward. If you look at the information content that most of the users of this site have posted, then on balance, it would seem that most people try to be informative, and most do a pretty good job of not looking stupid in public. I am adamantly opposed to censorship in any form, so rather than purging, perhaps it is best simply to give no response to the confrontational dirvel that crops up occasionally. It's like dealing with unruly children - without an audience, sooner or later they dry up.
By jeff sallen From: San Diego May 20, 2004 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
excellent rock, with a beautiful line. while walking down the creek, we spotted this climb and believed from the ground that it would not be overly difficult....Wrong Wrong Wrong....as a confident 5.11 leader, i got spanked hard on this one....felt more like 12c or 12d at the slabby, slightly overhanging crux sections....Neely, pony up, next time this one is ours..
If you're 5' 9" or shorter, you probably aren't going to be able to clip the bolt right of the bulging spot with the flaring crack using the really positive lieback holds. Unfortunately, you've got to let go of the good holds and jam the left hand in the crack in order to get the clip. Oh and you might not want the thought to enter your mind: "my last clip is about five moves right and down from where I am now. I'm f*%cked if I fall."
The jams are solid though - every bit as solid as the positive holds lower ... unless your hands are small. Then I'm thinking it is fists. The crux of this climb definitely toggles according to size - the high step below the 4th clip is the crux if you're 6' with sizeable hands, the crack at the 5th clip is the crux if you're _ 5'9" with small hands -
RE: Pitch 1, what i believe to be the 5.12 traverse that goes into a flaring crack. (I believe this is the first pitch of Earth Voyage: a sloping/crimpy traverse into a flared crack followed by balancey 11+ moves to anchor 1).
There is a very creaky small flake at the first bolt of this first pitch--the bolt is shared with the straight up 5.11a/or 5.10 (I think the first half pitch of China Doll, but it has anchors before the 13 crack).
I mention it because it is the most obvious, and best [hold] at the first bolt.
It's ripe and ready to bust off so be careful. There are other things to grab.
To the area developers: if you can verify this problem, would you consider wedging the hold off? It wouldn't change the difficulty of either route at all. Might be a safeguard against a short groundfall and rockfall.
I was there this past Sat and the thing was really loose.
Did this climb yesterday. Incredible, pretty sustained in nature. Really nice exposure, etc. Be prepared for a hanging belay after first pitch.
There was a flake near the top of pitch 2 that looks like it recently came off. It made the top of pitch two really hard. I don't know if this effects the rating, but I thought that might be the crux on the whole thing now, not pitch 1 (which was the best pitch).
By desbien From: seattle,wa May 4, 2008 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b
P1 kicked punted me after the crux. Deceptive route.
I would suggest combining pitches 1 & 2 if you want to climb pitch 2 to avoid the hanging belay. It is possible to clip into a long sling direct and not weight the rope, pull it up through your draws, start pitch 2 through the anchor hence eliminating rope drag and the hanging belay. Pitch one is more like 11+, pitch 2 is a hard onsight if there is no chalk up there. One of the best face pitches in BC that I have found. 60 meter rope will lower JUST from the anchor of P2 to the ground.
Did Earth Voyage today with my partner after many years of dreaming about it. It was cold, windy, and mostly sunny...but the friction held well. We used the two bolted 5.10s nearby (AAArete and Drop Zone) as warmups...both a bit stiff/tricky, but they did the trick. The first three pitches are VERY sustained! Start at the bottom of China Doll, clip the first bolt, and then begin traversing left. Pitch 1 was the most difficult for me as it included some crafty traversing on steep terrain with difficult sequences. My partner found pitches 2 and 3 to be as difficult or more as they became very thin slab routes. We rappelled with a 60 meter rope in 3 raps...pitch 4, pitch 3, and pitch 2&1 together (with ZERO rope to spare but totally safe). The most difficult multi-pitch I've ever done...amazing! I'm not sure what impressed me more, the sequences, the rock, or the exposure?!