Mountain Project: Climbing Boulder Canyon

Avalon's first and hardest sport route, Earth Angel, is the stunning arête/face on the far left side of Tarot Wall. It's hard to believe a route this good hasn't seen a second ascent (as per Rolofson's new guide book) until today; however, we did find the route somewhat dirty and lichen-covered in places so it is possible.

Face climb past 3 bolts to a good stance below the roof. Crank over the roof (12a) and ascend the very sustained and technical face above. A wild dynamic move (spectacular position) at mid-height onto the arête yields the crux. A couple more awkward 5.11 moves and the difficulties abate. I would agree w/ Horan's original rating of 12d.

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By ac
Aug 30, 2005

My partner and I did this route a few years back. Did not realize it had only a first ascent. Gear at the end is strongly recommended! We took some killer falls onto the tree below. Hard moves over the roof and sustained slab moves up the arete. Nice to hear it was 12d and not us climbing so poorly!

By Alan Higham
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.12d

Great pitch, there is a rest after pulling the roof, but then it is very sustained until the last bolt. I do not feel the need for supplemental gear after the last bolt, it eases off significantly.

By Joe Collins
Sep 18, 2006
rating: 5.12d

I highly doubt that this didn't see a 2nd ascent for 9 years until last summer. This is a strikingly obvious line on a very popular crag. Not to mention that there are probably 100+ people living in the Boulder area at any given time who can climb the grade. Most people wouldn't report it if they had redpointed a 12+ route.

As for the grade... the route is VERY condition dependent. When I got on this in July, I thought it was the hardest 12d that I'd ever been on. 30 degrees cooler this weekend and it felt like its grade. Nevertheless, this is certainly one of the best hard-12s in Boulder Canyon.

BTW, if you manage to pull through the secondary crux (spicy) you will have no trouble doing the 5.10 finish without gear. Also, there is no tree below the route to hit if you fall.

By matt wood
May 20, 2007

I had to leave a QD on Earth Angel over the weekend. I dont think I am strong enough to get it back. If any one happens to get it down, I would love to get it back.

Thanks!

By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 20, 2007

Matt, I cleaned a draw on the route last weekend. I've sent you a PM....

I'm a little perplexed by the upper section of this route: there is a crack system on the right and the arete on the left, working either would offer good rest and easier moves. Is the point to just work the hard face moves?

By Ben Collett
Jul 3, 2011

I just got on the route today, and I will second Joe's comment about it being conditions dependent. It felt really hard in the heat. People might want to be aware that there is a little block with a couple of crimps on top of it that one uses just above the initial roof that felt a little hollow and scary. I don't know how much longer it will stay put.

Earth Angel

5.12d

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