Ears to You
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BETA PHOTO: The chains on "Ears to You"
With a difficult boulder start and an appealing crack line, Ears to You is a wonderful new addition to the 2nd Alcove at Woodfords.
The pitch starts with a powerful move protected by a bolt (originally by fixed wires) which leads to the crack. Follow the crack up to the base of the "Ear" and traverse left under the small roof. Continue up the crack (a bit flaky) and behind the flake until you gain the top of the feature. Clip another bolt and face climb to the chain anchor.
This climb can also be led at 5.10b A0 by pulling on the first bolt.
Ears to You is located at the far right end of the 2nd Alcove, right of Quoia the Destroya. Look for the Ear-like feature with chains at the top.
Double set of cams to 3". A 4" piece is also helpful. Bring draws for the bolts and shoulder slings to reduce rope drag.