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BETA PHOTO: Starting out Earned Enemy.
Earned Enemy climbs a sharply featured prow over a perfect landing.
Stand start with hands matched on the large undercling (sit start is there, but the rock quality is choss). From there, move out right and match hands on the large, sloping jug. Then work straight up (crux) with a big left hand to the sharp, but good holds. Match hands again, throw a high right heel, and finish it on the jugs.
The crux involves some tricky but interesting footwork. Toe-hooking with a right foot out to the right allows the left hand throw to happen (without ripping your fingers off). Nonetheless, I would still recommend taping most of your left hand. The hold is sharp, and unless you're very tall, the feet are going to cut.
This is on the Northeast face of Love Juice Boulder.
A few pads, the landing is great though.
BETA PHOTO: Earned Enemy problem beta.
BETA PHOTO: Hitting the first move to the perfectly textured j...