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Early Wall

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Early Wall - Left End 
Early Wall - Right End 
Runway, The 

Early Wall 

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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Sep 28, 2009
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Routes on the left side of Early Wall

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Early Wall is the broad wall on the left side of the canyon. This area sees sun early in the a.m., and shade the rest of the day. Overall, this wall has excellent climbs, but is not as popular or crowded as the Winter Wall and the Grotto, mainly because it is colder and doesn't have as many moderates close to one another.

Climbs are in three sections of the cliff:

  • at the Right End, just left of the Grotto- which has 2 pitch climbs, nice sport climbs 5.10-5.12, and difficult cracks.

Getting There 

  • The easiest approach is by the Grotto approach trail, then walk left along the base.
  • Climbs at the upper left end are most easily reached by a faint trail with cairns, along the left end of the talus.

34 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Early Wall:
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Early Wall - Right End
Up To Bat   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Early Wall - Left End
Humbolt   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Early Wall - Left End
Rock n Road   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Early Wall - Left End
Solar Eclipse   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 80'   Early Wall - Right End
Luna Lumina   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Early Wall - Right End
Stone Temple Pilot   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Runway
Top Gun   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   The Runway
Mocos Locos   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Runway
Aviatrix   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Runway
Airbus   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Early Wall - Right End
Lichening The Serpent   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Early Wall - Right End
Aerostar   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Runway
Holding Pattern   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The Runway
Flight Simulator   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   The Runway
Schmeming   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Early Wall - Left End
Browse More Classics in Early Wall

Featured Route For Early Wall
Tina Sommer styling Humbolt

Humbolt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Early Wall - Left End
The best warm-up on the Early Wall, and one of the best routes at the grade at Diablo (that's not on the Winter Wall, anyway). Its name hints at the first three bolt placements near the crack, without which it would see much less traffic. Start on a big block and climb a finger crack followed by a mantle, then crimping and edging on the thin face left of the arete on small edges to the anchor. This climb is thinner but not as steep as most at Diablo. Fun, high quality climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Early Wall Add Comment
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By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

For the record, a number of the cracks on Early Wall (both of the extreme left side and near Up to Bat) were done by a combination of Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser. Rick Bradshaw et. al. may have done these at about the same time but we spent a lot of time cleaning. Rick isn't the only one to have worked on a route and then found it bolted.

By Aaron Miller
Sep 26, 2012

Appears to be a new trail leading to this crag and the Grotto area. Starts in the arroyo, just across from where the trail heads up to the Cave or Winter Wall. Great Trail!!!!

By Jason Young
Oct 1, 2012

The new trail is GREAT! Whoever put in all that work, THANKS!!! I think this trail works just fine for access to the Grotto also.