Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Early Wall

Select Area...
Early Wall - Left End 
Early Wall - Right End 
Runway, The 

Early Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 20,260
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Sep 28, 2009
Good Page?1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Area | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu
Overcast
68° | 43°
Clear
73° | 46°
Partly Cloudy
75° | 47°
Clear
72° | 38°
Clear
72° | 40°
Routes on the left side of Early Wall

Photo court...

Description 

Early Wall is the broad wall on the left side of the canyon. This area sees sun early in the a.m., and shade the rest of the day. Overall, this wall has excellent climbs, but is not as popular or crowded as the Winter Wall and the Grotto, mainly because it is colder and doesn't have as many moderates close to one another.

Climbs are in three sections of the cliff:

  • at the Right End, just left of the Grotto- which has 2 pitch climbs, nice sport climbs 5.10-5.12, and difficult cracks.


Getting There 

  • The easiest approach is by the Grotto approach trail, then walk left along the base.
  • Climbs at the upper left end are most easily reached by a faint trail with cairns, along the left end of the talus.


32 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',7],['5.11',17],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Early Wall:
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Early Wall - Right End
Up To Bat   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Early Wall - Left End
Humbolt   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Early Wall - Left End
Rock n Road   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Early Wall - Left End
Solar Eclipse   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 80'   Early Wall - Right End
Aileron Roll   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Early Wall - Left End
Luna Lumina   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Early Wall - Right End
Pitch   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Runway
Top Gun   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   The Runway
Stone Temple Pilot   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Runway
Mocos Locos   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Runway
Airbus   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Early Wall - Right End
Aviatrix   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Runway
Lichening The Serpent   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Early Wall - Right End
Holding Pattern   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The Runway
Aerostar   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Runway
Flight Simulator   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   The Runway
Schmeming   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Early Wall - Left End
Browse More Classics in Early Wall

Featured Route For Early Wall
The Golden Boy on the first ascent.

Lichening The Serpent 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Early Wall - Right End
The opening moves set the tempo for this exposed and sustained classic. The crux is through the bottom moves but does not jump out at you as a crux at any time. It is pretty sustained, balancy, and thin climbing from the get go. You have to move like a serpent would in S shapes and have good footwork. Very interesting and a must do, but not on a wet day....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Early Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

For the record, a number of the cracks on Early Wall (both of the extreme left side and near Up to Bat) were done by a combination of Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser. Rick Bradshaw et. al. may have done these at about the same time but we spent a lot of time cleaning. Rick isn't the only one to have worked on a route and then found it bolted.

By Aaron Miller
Sep 26, 2012

Appears to be a new trail leading to this crag and the Grotto area. Starts in the arroyo, just across from where the trail heads up to the Cave or Winter Wall. Great Trail!!!!

By Jason Young
Oct 1, 2012

The new trail is GREAT! Whoever put in all that work, THANKS!!! I think this trail works just fine for access to the Grotto also.