Early Wall is the broad wall on the left side of the canyon. This area sees sun early in the a.m., and shade the rest of the day. Overall, this wall has excellent climbs, but is not as popular or crowded as the Winter Wall and the Grotto, mainly because it is colder and doesn't have as many moderates close to one another.
Climbs are in three sections of the cliff:
- at the Right End, just left of the Grotto- which has 2 pitch climbs, nice sport climbs 5.10-5.12, and difficult cracks.
- The easiest approach is by the Grotto approach trail, then walk left along the base.
- Climbs at the upper left end are most easily reached by a faint trail with cairns, along the left end of the talus.
32 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Early Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Early Wall:
Featured Route For Early Wall
Lichening The Serpent 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a NM
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Early Wall - Right End
The opening moves set the tempo for this exposed and sustained classic. The crux is through the bottom moves but does not jump out at you as a crux at any time. It is pretty sustained, balancy, and thin climbing from the get go. You have to move like a serpent would in S shapes and have good footwork. Very interesting and a must do, but not on a wet day....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Karl Kiser|
Apr 1, 2008
For the record, a number of the cracks on Early Wall (both of the extreme left side and near Up to Bat) were done by a combination of Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser. Rick Bradshaw et. al. may have done these at about the same time but we spent a lot of time cleaning. Rick isn't the only one to have worked on a route and then found it bolted.
|By Aaron Miller|
Sep 26, 2012
Appears to be a new trail leading to this crag and the Grotto area. Starts in the arroyo, just across from where the trail heads up to the Cave or Winter Wall. Great Trail!!!!
|By Jason Young|
Oct 1, 2012
The new trail is GREAT! Whoever put in all that work, THANKS!!! I think this trail works just fine for access to the Grotto also.