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Early Wall

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Left End 
Observatory Wall (Upper Tier) 
Runway (Lower Tier) 

Early Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 35.80501, -106.14174 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,270
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Sep 28, 2009  with updates from George Perkins


69° | 43°

71° | 45°

77° | 48°

80° | 50°
Memorial Day

79° | 50°
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Routes on the left side of Early Wall Photo court...


Early Wall is the broad wall on the left side of the canyon. This area sees sun early in the a.m., and shade the rest of the day.

Climbs are in three sections of the cliff:

Getting There 

  • The easiest approach is by the Runway/Grotto approach trail. This trail starts in the arroyo straight across from the trail to the Winter Wall.
  • Climbs at the "Left End" (east) are also easily reached by a faint trail with cairns, along the left end of the talus.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Early Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Early Wall:
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Humbolt   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Left End
Learning to Fly   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Top Gun   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Mocos Locos   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Airbus   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Observatory Wall (Upper Tie...
Aviatrix   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Lichening The Serpent   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Observatory Wall (Upper Tie...
Holding Pattern   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Aerostar   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Turbulence   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Flight Simulator   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Schmeming   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Left End
The Right Stuff   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Runway (Lower Tier)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Early Wall

Featured Route For Early Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Schmeming is #4

Schmeming 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Left End
This route was first freed using traditional gear placements for the first 25 feet. Later, the FA party allowed bolts to be added to this otherwise R-rated section. The route is sustained, tricky, and thin throughout - bring your crimping fingers and be ready to keep your eyes on your feet!...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Early Wall Add Comment
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By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008
For the record, a number of the cracks on Early Wall (both of the extreme left side and near Up to Bat) were done by a combination of Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser. Rick Bradshaw et. al. may have done these at about the same time but we spent a lot of time cleaning. Rick isn't the only one to have worked on a route and then found it bolted.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Sep 26, 2012
Appears to be a new trail leading to this crag and the Grotto area. Starts in the arroyo, just across from where the trail heads up to the Cave or Winter Wall. Great Trail!!!!
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 1, 2012
The new trail is GREAT! Whoever put in all that work, THANKS!!! I think this trail works just fine for access to the Grotto also.

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