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Early Wall - Right End
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Day with Dr. Diablo 
Airbus 
Clip Art 
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs 
Ergo 
JetStream 
Lichening The Serpent 
Luna Lumina 
Solar Eclipse 
Space Shuttle 
You're Scaring the Horses 

Early Wall - Right End 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,500'
Page Views: 5,048. Good page?   
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Jun 7, 2006

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

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Thunderstorm
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Partly Cloudy
73° | 46°
Clear
72° | 43°
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Partly Cloudy
79° | 46°

BETA PHOTO: routes on the far right side of Early Wall (photo ...

Description 

Just to the East around the corner from the Grotto. North facing routes, good in summer.


Getting There 

The easiest way: Hike to the Grotto and head left before entering the Grotto. Routes are found all along the length of wall, so keep walking.


Climbs (Left to Right) 

Numbers link to Rick & Aaron's beta photo.
Lower Tier:
Ergo (5.10c, sport) #13 in photo
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs (5.8+, sport) #15 in photo
Clip Art (5.11d, sport) #16 in photo
A Day with Dr. Diablo (5.10c, sport) not shown, just right of "Clip Art"
Space Shuttle (5.10b, sport) not shown, right of "Dr. Diablo"

Upper Tier:
You're Scaring the Horses (5.12b, sport) #14 in photo
Airbus (5.11, trad) #18 in photo
Lichening The Serpent (5.11c, sport) #17 in photo
Solar Eclipse (5.10c, trad) not shown
Lunar Eclipse (5.10d, trad) right variation finish to "Solar Eclipse"
Unfinished Project (5.??)
Luna Lumina (5.11-, trad) #19 in photo
Swift/Johnson Diablo Standard crack (5.?) is somewhere above "Drunk Rednecks", but not sure exactly which crack (from note here).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Early Wall - Right End:
Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs   5.8+     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Space Shuttle   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Ergo   5.10c     Sport, 80 feet   
Solar Eclipse   5.10c     Trad, 2 pitches, 80 feet   
Luna Lumina   5.11- PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Airbus   5.11 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Lichening The Serpent   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Clip Art   5.11d     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Early Wall - Right End

Featured Route For Early Wall - Right End
The Golden Boy on the first ascent.

Lichening The Serpent 5.11c  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Early Wall - Right End
The opening moves set the tempo for this exposed and sustained classic. The crux is through the bottom moves but does not jump out at you as a crux at any time. It is pretty sustained, balancy, and thin climbing from the get go. You have to move like a serpent would in S shapes and have good footwork. Very interesting and a must do, but not on a wet day....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of Early Wall - Right End Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down at Observatory Ledge's two sets of belay anchors (for "Luna Lumina", left person, and "Solar Eclipse", right person). The colored dots show the approximate locations of: Green = top anchors of "Dr. Diablo"; Blue = top anchors of "Clip Art"; Red = top anchors of "Drunk Rednecks"; and Yellow = belay anchors for "Lichening the Serpent".

BETA PHOTO: Looking down at Observatory Ledge's two sets of be...