Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Left End

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aileron Roll S 
Airway Arete S 
Diablo Cruiser, The T 
Early Arete S 
Humbolt S 
Rock n Road T 
Rope Burn in Hell S 
Schmeming S 
Two Wheel Drive S 
Up To Bat T 

Left End Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 2,153
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Sep 28, 2009
Forecast:
Today

79° | 51°
Friday

76° | 50°
Saturday

79° | 48°
Sunday

77° | 46°
Monday

74° | 42°
Tuesday

66° | 37°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

Description 

The upper left side of Early Wall has about 10 climbs, including both sport climbs and cracks. This area is sunny at first in the morning, but goes into the shade for the rest of the day. There is seldom more than one party climbing up here. The cliff disintegrates into a discontinuous chossy section not far to the right of 2-Wheel Drive.

If you top out any of these climbs, scramble off the left (east) end of the cliff easily. One could also scramble up to the clifftop easily to set topropes, although some of the 2-bolt anchors may be a little bit too low to reach from above.

Getting There 

A faint trail follows cairns up the left side of the large talus slope, passing some nice rock art along the way. It's a steep hike up, but doesn't take more than 10 or 15 minutes.
Alternatively, a decent trail allows one to get here by traversing along the base of Early Wall from the Grotto.

Climbs (Left to Right) 

See also the original online guide by R.Bradshaw.

About 10 climbs are at the upper left end of Early Wall. A direct approach to this section of cliff can be had by finding the faint trail up from the wash, along the left edge of the boulder-covered slope.
Rope Burn in Hell 5.12b
Airway Arete 5.11c
abandoned project unworthy of being bolted ? (anchors, but no bolts, so far)
Schmeming 5.12a/b
Rock n Road 5.11 (trad, no anchor)
Early Arete 5.11d
Up To Bat 5.9 (trad, no anchor)
Humbolt 5.10a
Two Wheel Drive 5.10d
The Diablo Cruiser 5.7 (trad, no anchor)

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.8 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Left End

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Left End:
Humbolt   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Schmeming   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Left End

Featured Route For Left End
Rock Climbing Photo: Schmeming is #4

Schmeming 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Left End
This route was first freed using traditional gear placements for the first 25 feet. Later, the FA party allowed bolts to be added to this otherwise R-rated section. The route is sustained, tricky, and thin throughout - bring your crimping fingers and be ready to keep your eyes on your feet!...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Left End Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!