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Early season NH trad
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By JohnnyG
Apr 5, 2013
Hey - What are the places that warm up first for trad climbing in NH?

I understand cathedral and other spots can be sketch with ice falling.

Also, which of these are beginner friendly?

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By john strand
From southern colo
Apr 5, 2013
Depends on "beginner" Humphreys ledge just up the road is a traditional early location, mixed trad/sport

like alot of others, the easier climbs on cathedral.Whithorse can get crowded. WoodChuck and Sundown are usually OK but not many easy climbs.

Mt Oscar is another good choice

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Apr 5, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.
I haven't been there but it seems people are climbing at Longstack Precipice (New Durham area) a lot now. You may find something to your liking there. Longstack Precipice

If you are at Rumney, if you bring a light rack (nuts and maybe a few small cams to #1.5 or 2, you can do Peewee's Big Adventure at the Crows Nest.

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By burlap submariner
Apr 5, 2013
Go to Longstack in the lakes region, plenty of easy mixed bolt and gear climbs in a south facing location. mountainproject.com/v/longstac...

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By John Ski
From Intervale, N.H.
Apr 5, 2013
Red Rocks
In the White Mts. Rumney has a large selection of routes 5.7 and under, Humphrey's and Artist's Bluff are south facing and ice free with some 5.7s and under, Square Ledge in Pinkham Notch is ice free with a handful of 5.5s and incredible scenery. Cathedral and Whitehorse still have ice to come down near the moderates. I don't think access road to Mt. Oscar is snow free yet.

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By JChepes
From Chocorua, NH
Apr 5, 2013
Pawtuckaway has plenty of short trad lines that will get you warmed up. The Start always wakes me up nicely!

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By joshua corbett
From Wolfeboro NH
Apr 7, 2013
My son
Hay Mark you should check Longstack out its a great place, plus there are a few aid routes that can go free for someone to get.

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By Dan Felix
Apr 7, 2013
Anyone know if the gate to Devils Den is open yet?

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By joshua corbett
From Wolfeboro NH
Apr 8, 2013
My son
Dan the gate wont open until mid May to Memorial day weekend, whenever the mud dries up.

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By Read
From Townsend, MA
Apr 8, 2013
Resting just above the crux.
the walk in from the horse farm to devils den isn't to bad if your jonesing to get to the den. I was out recently and the trails were pretty good.

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By burlap submariner
Apr 8, 2013
the gate is still closed, the den is pretty wet as of last week, I would get at it today before we get rained out this week, enter the gym as if we are not sick enough of that by now....

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By Dan Felix
Apr 8, 2013
Thanks guys. I was there last fall a few days after the gates got closed and had to find another way in... I need to check out Longstack soon too.

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By EDGE
From Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2013
Puffin, Newfoundland, Canada
I think some of you are talking about two different Devil's Dens. One is at P-tuck, the other in the New Durham Area.

Longstack Precipice is snow free and we've been climbing rock there for months already.

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By Dan Felix
Apr 9, 2013
I'm talking about New Durham.

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By EDGE
From Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2013
Puffin, Newfoundland, Canada
Dan Felix wrote:
I'm talking about New Durham.

There are a bunch of "Devils Den"s in NH; New Durham, P-tuck, Barrington, Derry, and one on Mt Willard that I can think of off the top of my head. Also a "Devils Chair" in Madison. Apparently old Lucifer likes to frequent the Granite State.

The gate off Rte 28 accessing the New Durham version is closed through mud season. Typically the gate off North Shore Rd, off of Merrymeeting Lake Rd, is open earlier, but you need a high clearance vehicle; this is also the easiest access to Mt Molly. I haven't been out there yet this year, and with all the development on Longstack I only hit up the Den once last year. Lots of good routes, but most are relatively low in the trees compared to Longstack. If the gate on North Shore Road is closed, it's only about a half hour hike into either the Den or Molly.

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By joshua corbett
From Wolfeboro NH
Apr 11, 2013
My son
Well the truth is the one of 28 might be closed all season because of one dick. This guy likes to walk his dogs down that road and apparently got his way and had the gate closed permanently, The New Durham ATV club is working on getting that gate opened up but who knows. As of right now the gate will remain closed until they can settle there dispute.

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By Dan Felix
Apr 11, 2013
I had heard the reason it got closed early last season was due to tires being burned, appliances being dumped and shot at, etc. Regardless of why, I'm glad to hear the issue is being worked on.

I found a way in last fall, but I was in a Jeep, mot a car...

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