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Early Bird
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Early Bird 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Mike Perkins, 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: spring summer fall
Page Views: 1,329
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Greg getting into the steep and slanting upper cra...

Description 

Start in twin cracks in a dihedral at the bottom of the a arete, climbing three or four really great sequences interspersed with huge rests. Each sequence gets a bit harder than the last. As you get about 2/3 of the way up, there is a fun transition into a crack system to the right, setting up for the final boulder problem.


Location 

The crack systems just right of the big arete splitting the wall


Protection 

I used medium nuts, a blue tcu or .4 camalot (save it for your last piece), 2 yellow-tcu-sized pieces, one set of cams up to #4 camalot.



Photos of Early Bird Slideshow Add Photo
You're in LCC: the mandatory slopper mantle guards the top.
You're in LCC: the mandatory slopper mantle guards...
Jonathan catching a break on top of the twin hand cracks before getting into the business part of Early Bird
Jonathan catching a break on top of the twin hand ...
The strange #4 camalot placement down low.  You don't have to use it, but things would be a lot more spicy without it.  I only post this because its the only way I felt safe for getting through the lower cracks without fixed gear.
BETA PHOTO: The strange #4 camalot placement down low. ...
Comments on Early Bird Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Oct 29, 2010

I'm pretty sure this hasn't had a second ascent. I'd love to know what others think. Personally, the moves on this are really fun and the last boulder problem is kick ass. The blue tcu holds long whippers from large climbers so trust me when I say the gear is good. Just be sure the large lobes are on the left.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 29, 2010

4 stars divided by 2 is probably more realistic eh? :)

By tenesmus
Oct 30, 2010

Oh Brad.
Brad. Brad. Brad.

By vacano
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Fun & diverse climbing with rests to a "for real" good bouldery finish.

By Ben Folsom
Nov 17, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Reachy...

By tenesmus
Jan 26, 2014

I've been told by several friends this might be .12c? I have no idea how to rate stuff because I often have to siege the stew out of it before I actually send. All I know is that its a heads up line with great rests between fun cruxes that keep coming after you. This is a great mid to late day winter route during high pressure systems and a great evening route in spring and fall.

I know a lot of people have gotten on it but don't know it its had a third ascent after Mike and I did it. If you have sent, please let me know your thoughts on the grade and any equipping changes you'd want to see.