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Early Bird

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Bed Head T 
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Worm, The T 

Early Bird 


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Page Views: 5,096
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 29, 2010
Forecast:
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Partly Cloudy
81° | 61°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
87° | 62°
Clear
90° | 65°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
85° | 64°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
80° | 61°
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Jonathan catching a break on top of the twin hand ...

Description 

About 200 feet above the Wheeler Newsome/ Hong wall is another series of cracks and faces. This area is a tribute to all the guys who wake up early and get after it before work.


Getting There 

Walk up the Egg trail, passing several switchbacks. After the trail intersects the gully below the Hong wall, go one more switchback and cut up on the light climbers path leading back to the gully. Walk 200 more feet up to the base of the wall.


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Early Bird:
Boing-oing-oing   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Early Bird   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Early Bird

Featured Route For Early Bird
Topo of area.

Hair of the Dog 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Early Bird
This climbs the gently overhanging crack directly below and linking into the final crux of Early Bird. Scramble up the chossy rock and make a belay on a nice little shelf directly below the crack. Fire the V4 start, then some .11-ish climbing to the final V5-ish crux....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By tenesmus
Oct 29, 2010

So there I was, at the top of Bed Head, the first line we worked on up here. Its barely light and I heard this gruff voice call out from the gully behind me, "Is that Tenesmus?" Yep! Howdy down there! "What are you doing up here so early?" Umm, climbing. "Are you going to do that line around the arete?" Its the whole reason we came up here...

I had been eying this area for several years and the timing for getting after it couldn't have been a second later. Seriously though, the cleaning on all these routes took a lot of time and was sometimes dangerous. What we found was (so far 4) additional all gear protected lines.

The Worm and then Bed Head make really great warmups for people wanting to try Tick Fever for the first time. Seriously, how many people have gotten on that thing cold turkey and gotten pumped out of their minds? I sure did.