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Retirement Rock
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Early Bird Special 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 559
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Early Bird.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the west face, start 15 feet right of the arete. Climb up the steep face on small holds to a two bolt anchor on a ledge.

Protection 

Six bolts will get you a two bolt anchor.


Photos of Early Bird Special Slideshow Add Photo
Early Bird Special.
Early Bird Special.
Start of Early Bird Special. A good warm-up to TR the 5.12 to the left.
Start of Early Bird Special. A good warm-up to TR ...

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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

After the second bolt, there is a stretch of blank face. This is the crux. The move, as I did it, is a lunge/deadpoint to a good left hand. The hands and feet for the move are good but it is committing. This move is probably somewhat height-dependent.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 16, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a surprisingly good route, and I am almost tempted to give it three stars, except that it is a bit short. The climbing, on positive edges and sidepulls, is interesting all the way to the anchors. I didn't find the lunge mentioned above. On the contrary, I found good holds within reach the entire way.

Good job, Bob and Greg.

Hey, Greg. Screw the wheelchair access. I enjoyed bushwacking away from the crowds for a change. I liked it so much that I'm going back, tomorrow, to do the 5.12.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

The best route at the crag. Honestly, that's a measured compliment, but all of the routes will improve with cleaning. That said, this is presently both the cleanest and the best of them.