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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Early Bird Special 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: M. Brooks 1982
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2004

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If you enjoy moderate climbing on so-so rock through a few bushes, this is a route for you! Nothing so bad as to merit a bomb, but not worth ever doing again.

This climb is the next crack system left of the cirque of cracks, just a few meters past "The Formula" Locate that route and step left to the junky-looking system. Climb it to a tree and belay/rap as for The Formula.

I followed a partner up it and seem to recall some odd strenuous move that seemed out of place for 5.6, but nothing really bad. The pro looks fine from the ground and I don't recall my relatively novice partner having a hard time protecting it.

Maybe this could be viewed as the less desirable 'easy climb' to do while waiting in line for "Duh Dihedral."


Protection 

A standard light rack.



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By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 9, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb has a tricky start, and then you work through two bulges with good pro. Challenging for 5.6.

There aren't any slings on the tree at the top. So, you need to rap using Duh Dihederal's bolt anchor.