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Big D, The T 
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Breeder's Cup T 
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Eagle's Beak T 
Fall of the Republic T 
Feeling Loopy T 
Funky Gold Patina T,S 
Glue Factory T 
Goverment Mule T 
Kentucky Derby T 
Neighsayer T 
Oh Wilbur T 
Playing Timmy Sticks T 
Pokey's Arete T 
Ponyboy Arete T 
Preakness T 
Sea Biscuit T 
Tijuana Donkey Show T 

Eagle's Beak 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bernard and John Gillett, 1994
Season: Year round
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: 1rsties4life on Oct 9, 2011

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Crack start of Eagle's Beak.


P1. Climb the finger crack beneath the large roof with a pillar at its start.

P2. Traverse right under the roof and into the chimney and climb to its top.

P3. Climb the open book dihedral to a belay below the obvious offwidth crack that cuts through the eagle's beak.

P4. Escape right along a ramp to the top of the ridge, or do the last pitch of Neighsayer.

It is possible to combine the last 2 pitches into one.


This is directly below the horsehead to the right of the Sea Biscuit alcove.


Standard rack.

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Getting into crux.
Getting into crux.

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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There is a bolt anchor above the chimney on what is described as pitch 2.
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