Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Horseshead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blondie T 
Breeder's Cup T 
Charlie Horse T 
De-Virginizing Stud Pony T 
Eagle's Beak T 
Fall of the Republic T 
Feeling Loopy T 
Funky Gold Patina T,S 
Glue Factory T 
Goverment Mule T 
Kentucky Derby T 
Neighsayer T 
Oh Wilbur T 
Playing Timmy Sticks T 
Ponyboy Arete T 
Preakness T 
Sea Biscuit T 
Tijuana Donkey Show T 

Eagle's Beak 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bernard and John Gillett, 1994
Season: Year round
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: 1rsties4life on Oct 9, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Crack start of Eagle's Beak.

Description 

P1. Climb the finger crack beneath the large roof with a pillar at its start.

P2. Traverse right under the roof and into the chimney and climb to its top.

P3. Climb the open book dihedral to a belay below the obvious offwidth crack that cuts through the eagle's beak.

P4. Escape right along a ramp to the top of the ridge, or do the last pitch of Neighsayer.

It is possible to combine the last 2 pitches into one.

Location 

This is directly below the horsehead to the right of the Sea Biscuit alcove.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Eagle's Beak Slideshow Add Photo
Getting into crux.
Getting into crux.

Comments on Eagle's Beak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There is a bolt anchor above the chimney on what is described as pitch 2.