|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA:||Dave Beck, Norm Wilson, 1963.|
|Submitted By:||Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006|
|Comments on Eagle Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Mar 19, 2007
|Great route in a great setting.|
From: Olympic Valley, CA
Aug 3, 2009
Great climb. Very little loose rock compared to other easy rated alpine climbs I've done. Lots of cobwebs when we climbed it so I don't think this gets climbed too often, although we did clip a fixed nut and cam that didn't seem to be there for too long.
Takes great pro the whole way. We did this in three pitches. First pitch, almost a full 60 meters, ground up through the "V" section belay where the angle eases below a few bushes. Second pitch, again almost a full 60 meters, up past the couple bushes up easy ground to the chimney section, continue up the path of least resistance to a big ledge area. Third pitch find the easiest path to the summit block.
I placed everything from a green alien up through a #4 Camelot. If I were to do this again I would only bring a set of nuts, #.5-#2 Camelot with a double in #1 and #2. Although I placed a #4 in the Chimney it was not needed, a #2 would have gone in a foot above or a foot below. I also placed a #3 at the first belay, but if I had an extra #2 it would have worked better. Lots of nut placements. There are no anchors so bring enough gear that you feel comfortable with.
We had to get a bit creative on the decent. I couldn't find a way off that we felt comfortable downclimbing so we did one rap and left some webbing in the saddle below the summit.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|Fun east climb with great pro. The crack on the first pitch had lots of knobs for feet and hands.|
Sep 15, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great route but I think it is much harder than 5.5. A steep double crack spot before the V and getting up into the flared chimney sure felt all of 5.7 to me.
We climbed the nice crack/flake to the right of the mentioned groove which was really good. We did it in 3 pitches to the ridge mostly because I sewed up the first pitch to below the V and didn't have enough gear to keep going.
I liked this much more than the ridge route.