Eagle rock was one of the first areas in New Brunswick to be climbed. It was first explored by climbers in the mid 70s with a few lines in the 5.1 to 5.5 grade that may be a little stiff by todays standards. The climbing continued in this area for a few years but when Cochrane lane became more popular in the late 70 and early 80s, the early climber focused on the larger wall across the valley.
Some of the first climbers in NB were Tom Buzz, Colin Bell and G. Lacroix. These early rock climbers opened free climbs like Toms Route and the wire Brush Special at Eagle rock but also put up some of the classics in Welsford like Gollums Cave, Cheekbone corner, waterfall layback and pink panther. These routes have been re-graded in the last few years and still remain as test pieces in New Brunswick.
Eagle rock has had little development science the 70s. There was another aid line done by Steve Adamson that ascends the left wall, there a few pins left from the first and only accent. And Steve also added a few small but stout free/trad climbs on the left wall.
The most current development was a few of the old aid lines from the time were finally freed by Bowles and Cruickshank around 2004.
This Area is located on private land is not part of base Gagetown's restriction. You do not have to contact CFB to climb here but please be respectful and don't trash the place.
Located on the right side of highway 7 coming from Fredericton, its between the Irving in Welsford and the first exit in to Grand Bay-Westfield. You can pull off at the picnic area walk on the high way towards the Irving, there is a small cairn off of the left side of the road where the trail starts. The trail is currently marked with orange flagging tape and will lead to the great roof.
Climbing Season For the New Brunswick area.
Weather station 15.7 miles from here
21 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Eagle Rock
The True Great Roof
A2+ PG13 North America
: ... : The Great Roof Area
The True Great Roof is the thin pin seam that splits through the center of the great roof. This line starts on some iffy gear but at the base of the roof there are a few small cam placements, after that is piton seam (surprising deep) out and around the lip. The top out can be a little tricky if there is ice and snow covering the placement over the lip. But there are a few cracks and some med cam placements once above the lip. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International