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Eagle Pinnacle

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After the Gold Rush T 
Andy Dude T 
Eagle's Nest T 
Electric Razor T 
Feeling Groovy T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Goblin T 
Jizz T 
Lichen Lovers T 
Razor Burn TR 
Razor's Edge T 
Small Affair direct T 
Spoodge T 
Untickable, The T 

Eagle Pinnacle  


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Page Views: 4,467
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The top orange block of Eagle Pinnacle

Description 

This formation lies near the right side of Suicide Rock, and has a hodgepodge of short routes. The climbs start at several different levels, from right at the ground to near the top of the rock.

Getting There 

Keep going right past Hot Buttered Rump until you see a mix of bulges and bowls. This is before Flower of High Rank or the huge right-facing corner of Cat's Cave Inn.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Pinnacle:
Finger Lickin' Good   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Goblin   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Untickable   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Eagle Pinnacle

Featured Route For Eagle Pinnacle
Darrell Hensel going for the tick on the Untickable, 8/08.  Photo: Kevin Powell.

The Untickable 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Eagle Pinnacle
Thin steep edging on good rock characterizes this route. Originally done with 5 bolts, the first ascent party later rearranged the first bolts to eliminate two potential ground falls. There are now 6 bolts on the route.Scramble 40' up to the base of the route. From standing on the flake, pull onto the wall and climb past 4 bolts (11d) to the crux 5th bolt (12a). Slightly runout moves gain the base of a right angling ramp. Easy moves (5.8) up the ramp take one to the last (6th) bolt. One ma...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Eagle Pinnacle Slideshow Add Photo
Eagle Pinnacle Area from the trail, Suicide Rock.
BETA PHOTO: Eagle Pinnacle Area from the trail, Suicide Rock.
Shot from the base of Godzilla. Small Affair is the left arete of the summit block.
BETA PHOTO: Shot from the base of Godzilla. Small Affair is th...

Comments on Eagle Pinnacle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Sep 26, 2007
Are there any bolted anchors/rap stations on the top of this formation?
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 3, 2011
Not that I can remember Adam, at the top after completing Small Affair Direct I scrambled down into the notch at the top of North Gully East then scrambled down that.
By Tradoholic
Aug 27, 2014
There's three random bolts on the top, none set for rappel, I left a sling and locker on one to do three raps down to the ground.