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Eagle Peak

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Left Wall  
Right Wall  
Summit, The 
Tan Man Tower 

Eagle Peak 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,000'
Location: 32.8822, -116.641 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 29,618
Administrators: Adam Stackhouse, Marc Kajut, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: SCherry on Jan 11, 2011
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Eagle Peak and flowers. Credit Kevin Worrall
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

High quality single, and multi-pitch, sport climbing on beautiful orange and white granite in the San Diego County backcountry. The area is relatively new, developed in the last 5 years, and is comprised of a large main wall and several other satellite areas. Mainly South facing and over 500 feet high in some places, this is a fantastic winter time destination, about an hour and a half drive from downtown SD.

Currently there is a 2008 guidebook available to Eagle Peak routes. Its published by the Allied Climbers of San Diego (ACSD) with route topo's and directions to the Eagle Peak Area (the 2 other backcountry climbing destinations in SD County are also included). Find it at REI or at the ACSD website www.alliedclimbers.org/index.php


Getting There 

Driving directions are a bit complex: Head out the 8 East from San Diego about 40 minutes, and exit at Descanso for route 79. Take 79 North for 1 mile and turn left on Riverside Drive. In 1 mile turn left on Viejas Grade Rd and immediately right on Oak Grove Drive. In 1.5 miles turn right on Boulder Creek Rd. After 5 miles of pavement and 5 miles of graded dirt, the road crosses Boulder Creek. 2 miles further is the trailhead at a hairpin turn with a gated road and a kiosk. The left hand road leading west on a level ridge is the start of the approach. This is also the start of the hike to the popular Three Sisters Waterfalls.

Approach: About 45 minutes to the summit area. About 45-60 min. to the base of the main wall. Most of this can be made on a mountain bike which cuts the time by about 30 min. Pass the gate and follow the ridge for .5 mile, then down to a saddle where the junction with the Three Sisters Waterfall trail branches to the left. Continue straight ahead to the west and uphill for .5 mile, then down hill for less than .5 mile. The trail leaves the drainage and hooks to the left (south) climbing slightly and traversing around a small ridge. Just after crossing a gully the trail becomes steep and switchbacks right. Within 100 feet you will come to a fork. The trail to the "main wall" branches left, or stays straight to approach the "summit" area. The "Main Wall" trail gains a pass in another 100 yards then descends 450 vertical feet to the base.


37 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',7],['5.11',19],['5.12',11],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Peak:
Rock Jungle   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 5 pitches, 450'   Left Wall
Cruise Line   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 5 pitches, 500'   Left Wall
Homeboy   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Tan Man Tower
Up Stream   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Right Wall
Baby Face   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Left Wall
Miss Brown   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Right Wall
Soy Chango   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Right Wall
Bush Doctor   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tan Man Tower
The Direct Route   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 4 pitches, 500'   Left Wall
Fly Away Roof   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 220'   Right Wall
Boots On The Ground   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Right Wall
Browse More Classics in Eagle Peak

Featured Route For Eagle Peak
Close up of top crux of Bush Doctor...the reachy part.  Photo credit Kevin Worrall

Bush Doctor 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a  CA : San Diego County : ... : Tan Man Tower
The classic on the formation. In the center of the large corner on Tan Man Tower is the start to this excellent route that ascends the corner, out onto the right wall and up to the top of the tower. This route is height dependent and shorter climbers may find it more difficult at the crux. I'm 5'8" with a +1 and I feel the route may be 11d/12a.Start in the center of the large corner, follows a few bolts to the first crux, a traverse right that gets you established on the right arete of the wall...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Eagle Peak
Photos of Eagle Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Baby Face 11c
Baby Face 11c
Prime Rib 12a
Prime Rib 12a
main and right wall of Eagle Peak. Photo credit Kevin Worrall.
main and right wall of Eagle Peak. Photo credit Ke...
View of Eagle Peak from the Three Sisters Waterfall below the crag. Photo Credit Kevin Worrall
View of Eagle Peak from the Three Sisters Waterfal...
Baby Face 11a, and view of lunch rock at the base. Photo Kevin Worrall
Baby Face 11a, and view of lunch rock at the base....
Close up of top crux of Bush Doctor...the reachy part.  Photo credit Kevin Worrall
Close up of top crux of Bush Doctor...the reachy p...
Last light, Eagle Peak
Last light, Eagle Peak
Looking up at the main face, Eagle Peak
Looking up at the main face, Eagle Peak
Tail Tucker Arete pitch 3
Tail Tucker Arete pitch 3
Tail Tucker Arete 11+
Tail Tucker Arete 11+
Your first view of the crag on the drive in, Eagle Peak
Your first view of the crag on the drive in, Eagle...
Climbing <em>Cruise Line</em> (5.9) on the main face, Eagle Peak
Climbing Cruise Line (5.9) on the main fa...
A view of the trailhead, Eagle Peak
A view of the trailhead, Eagle Peak
Pitch 3, Crazy Horse
Pitch 3, Crazy Horse
Winter climbing in San Diego, Eagle Peak
Winter climbing in San Diego, Eagle Peak
Cedar Creek Falls from the approach trail, Eagle Peak Area
Cedar Creek Falls from the approach trail, Eagle P...
A nice oak tree along the trail, Eagle Peak
A nice oak tree along the trail, Eagle Peak
profile of crag.  Credit Kevin Worrall
profile of crag. Credit Kevin Worrall
A nice sunset, Eagle Peak
A nice sunset, Eagle Peak
Eagle Peak, San Diego County
Eagle Peak, San Diego County
Hiking the approach trail, Eagle Peak
Hiking the approach trail, Eagle Peak
Eagle Peak, San Diego County
Eagle Peak, San Diego County
The view from the top, Eagle Peak
The view from the top, Eagle Peak
Tail Tucker Arete
Tail Tucker Arete
Eagle Peak from below.  Credit Kevin Worrall
Eagle Peak from below. Credit Kevin Worrall
Hiking out, Eagle Peak
Hiking out, Eagle Peak
The Main wall from the approach trail.
The Main wall from the approach trail.
Comments on Eagle Peak Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 24, 2014
By Chris Morissette
From: Santa Barbara
Mar 23, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

Anyone know if eagle peak is open right now due to nesting season?

By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 24, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

www.alliedclimbers.org/access-issues/nesting-advisories

Its open but only the section of wall from Direct Route to the right (when looking up from the base)is open. Everything left of that route is closed.

I was out there this weekend, and the peregrine is definitely being more protective than earlier this season.

By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 12, 2011

Hey San Diego climbers - I just added this area to the database. I'm a Boulder climber that just relocated to SD and have visited Eagle Peak several times. Really rad climbing for the area, and a truly special place. Please add routes and areas if you have climbed here and have good beta. Open to suggestions as well.

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Feb 5, 2011

This is awesome. Thanks for getting the info on here. I can't wait to check this place out.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 28, 2013

I've never seen so many anchors on a wall without rap rings. Is there a reason why at this wall? My partner and I rapped from the top down but had to maneuver from one belay station to another using scattered anchors with rap rings and using bail biners we found on rap anchors/belay stations without them...

Baby face was a prime example. You can climb the first pitch and get to a belay station with rap rings, but you climb another 10 feet up to belay for the 2nd pitch on 3 bolts without rings/chains. After the 2nd pitch you get to another belay station without rings/chains, but then the 4th pitch belay has rings...

By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 30, 2013

RNClimber - Eagle Peak was set up as a multi-pitch area. There are some anchor stations with rap rings or leaver biners but they get moved all the time by people who are trying to rap in like you.

Rapping in from the top is a mistake, especially when it takes all of 5 minutes to walk down to the base with flip flops on. The only reason to do so is if you are trying to project an upper pitch.

The beta is to stash your stuff at the top, rack up, and walk down to the base and climb out. Then you can have a snack and water and do it again. Quite often I climb 10-15 pitches in a day this way.

By Kevin Worrall
Feb 19, 2013

We installed probably 100 double quicklinks, 2 per bolt, on most belay/rap anchors, and nearly all of them were taken by climbers who don't get it, and think their personal needs are more important. I also had my gear stashes pilfered more than once out there.

After building the trail, cleaning loose rock and dirt off lots of now clean routes, placing 1500 bolts, and placing 100s of dollars of what were supposed to be permanent links for everyone's convenience, my work and investment is done.

If you think there's a problem with the rap anchors - fix it.

On a brighter note - enjoy the climbing...

By jenrau
From: Thousand Oaks, California
Oct 7, 2013

We are thinking of heading out for a long weekend. Would you all suggest staying in alpine? Or do people camp out there?

By jenrau
From: Thousand Oaks, California
Oct 7, 2013

We are thinking of heading out for a long weekend. Would you all suggest staying in alpine? Or do people camp out there?

By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 13, 2013

Camping is legal right off the road at the parking area. Although there are no amenities (no water, toilets, tables, etc). Just a short stroll down the trail are some nice spots to pitch a tent but you would have hikers in the morning walking right by your camp. Never heard of anyone staying in Alpine.

By ChadC
From: San Diego CA
Feb 24, 2014

Eagle Peak has quickly become my favorite crag in San Diego. An hour away from downtown, easy approach, and a a lot of amazing multi pitch sport routes. I am always surprised there is barely anyone on the weekends here. Seems to be kind of a secret still.

The SDAC Pocket Guide is super helpful out here. There is so many options for linking pitches together to make them harder or easier. The only way to truly map it out is with this book.

If you can lead 5.10. I would differently take a trip out here