BETA PHOTO: Both Lower and Upper Eagle Lake Ice falls can be s...
Description
Above Eagle Lake between Tanima Peak and Mahana Peak and just below Eagle's Beak are several options for a climber willing to travel a bit further into the backcountry during the snow seasons. Here you will find several secluded virgin-ice falls in a stunning setting. The ice offers anything from WI2 to WI4+, and there is enough of it for two days of fun climbing. Mixed lines are also here for those compelled to scratch it up. Camp close and enjoy a hidden gem of RMNP.
A backcountry permit is required for camping in RMNP. You can self register until May 1st at the Wild Basin TH.
Getting There
Approach as for Hidden Falls and Ouzel Falls. Continue past Ouzel Falls on the Thunder Lake trail. At approximately 9,800’, head off trail with the intention of following North St. Vrain Creek up to its confluence with a tributary originating out of Eagle Lake. Follow the tributary past Mertensia Falls up a forested headwall. A second headwall must be overcome near treeline. Once at Eagle Lake, the ice will be obvious.
Traveling light with skis can probably get you there in around 4 hours. It's approximately 8 miles from the snow closure at 8380' and around 3k vertical feet with some ups and downs on the approach.
Avalanche terrain is minimal until you leave North St. Vrain Creek and head up toward Eagle Lake. Beyond this point, your ability to assess and respond accordingly to snow pack stability is critical.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Lake Ice:
The Upper Eagle Lake Ice is the best ice in the area. A 70 meter rope may barely allow for a single pitch ascent. Two obvious ice lines are possible. The climber's left side avoids the cliff and is WI3. The flow on climber's right is composed of half a dozen curtains stacked one on top of the other and separated by narrow ledges. The line splits near the top into two narrow curtains offering options to finish. Undoubtedly mixed climbers will find more options here....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
After spying these shockingly blue flows on 4-10-10 from across North St Vrain Valley during some Denali training, I was pretty surprised to not find any further information in guidebooks or online. My curiosity got the best of me, so I headed back up the following weekend and checked it out. Most likely someone has climbed this stuff at some point, but maybe the long approach and moderate ratings has kept these unclimbed until now? Anyone have anything to add?
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