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Eagle Lake Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Wind Tree T 
A Line T 
Crowd Control T 
Eagle Route T 
East Ridge Route T 
Escape, The T 
Monkey Business T 
Orange Book T 
Orange Sunshine T 

Eagle Lake Buttress  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,640'
Location: 38.9504, -120.136 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,524
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 18, 2006


66° | 50°

65° | 50°

64° | 45°

63° | 45°

53° | 43°
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This prominent buttress, towers at the south end of a long ridge about a mile west of Eagle Lake.
Good rock and excellent views make this a fine place to climb.

[Note: Some parties that summit with ample time and energy report enjoying the ridge traverse uphill from the top of Eagle Lake Buttress proper.]

Getting There 

To reach the buttress, cross the outlet at Eagle Lake and follow a ravine to a ridge that leads to the base.
The approach takes about 1.5 hours.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.0 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Lake Buttress:
Eagle Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches   
East Ridge Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Orange Book   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Wind Tree   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Orange Sunshine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 260'   
Browse More Classics in Eagle Lake Buttress

Featured Route For Eagle Lake Buttress
"Monkey Business". Photo by Blitzo.

Monkey Business 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Eagle Lake Buttress
This great route climbs a buttress to the left of "Orange Book".Start at a big juniper. Climb crack, chimney and gully to a belay.Climb a 5.9 crack up the right-side of an overhang. Climb left to a wide crack and past the lip of the overhang and follow a thin crack. Move left to a small ledge on an arete.Low angle climbing leads to the "East Ridge"....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Eagle Lake Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
The buttress sits way up there.
The buttress sits way up there.
Eagle Lake Buttress
Eagle Lake Buttress

Comments on Eagle Lake Buttress Add Comment
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By timmaly
Jul 27, 2013
Climbed this via Eagle Route a few weeks ago. Really cool alpine adventure, despite the low climbing/hiking ratio. Reminded me of Cathedral in Tuolumne, though with a longer and harder hike and shorter climb. I left some green webbing slung around a block and a hanger (both brand new) for the rap off the summit to the slabby descent.
By Will Gilkison
From: Wheatland, CA
Aug 25, 2013
Timmaly -

We used your gear to rap down after summiting via the East Ridge Route, it's still in good shape, although no longer green.
By SWGuillemot
Jun 3, 2015
The scramble in took a quite a bit more than an hour and a half. Granted this was my first time off trail in the back country. I would allow a bit more time and start early in the day if you are not experienced in back country hiking. The green sling and biners were gone, so I left one of my own for the rap down. Please leave for the good of the order!
By splitclimber
Sep 15, 2015
give yourself 2 hours for the approach. The rocky/brushy gully is a much better approach than the slabs.

The walk off is easy. downclimb past the small pillar to the notch, climb up a 8 foot rock flake to a sloped top out. It is easy and there is no need to rap the mountaineer's route.
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