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Eagle Lake Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Wind Tree T 
A Line T 
Crowd Control T 
Eagle Route T 
East Ridge Route T 
Escape, The T 
Monkey Business T 
Orange Book T 
Orange Sunshine T 
Tom sans Bob T,TR 

Eagle Lake Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,640'
Location: 38.9504, -120.136 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,891
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 18, 2006


54° | 38°

55° | 38°
Memorial Day

60° | 44°

62° | 43°

63° | 43°
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This prominent buttress, towers at the south end of a long ridge about a mile west of Eagle Lake.
Good rock and excellent views make this a fine place to climb.

[Note: Some parties that summit with ample time and energy report enjoying the ridge traverse uphill from the top of Eagle Lake Buttress proper.]

Getting There 

To reach the buttress, cross the outlet at Eagle Lake and follow a ravine to a ridge that leads to the base.
The approach takes about 1.5 hours.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.0 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Eagle Lake Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Eagle Lake Buttress:
Eagle Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches   
East Ridge Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Orange Book   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Wind Tree   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
Orange Sunshine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 260'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Eagle Lake Buttress

Featured Route For Eagle Lake Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: "Orange Sunshine". Photo by Blitzo.

Orange Sunshine 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Eagle Lake Buttress
To the right of "Orange Book", are two parallel cracks that begin about 120' above the ground.Climb the first pitch of "Orange Book" to a ledge beneath the cracks.Move up and right and climb the left crack to "The East Ridge"....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Eagle Lake Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The buttress sits way up there.
The buttress sits way up there.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eagle Lake Buttress
Eagle Lake Buttress

Comments on Eagle Lake Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By timmaly
Jul 27, 2013
Climbed this via Eagle Route a few weeks ago. Really cool alpine adventure, despite the low climbing/hiking ratio. Reminded me of Cathedral in Tuolumne, though with a longer and harder hike and shorter climb. I left some green webbing slung around a block and a hanger (both brand new) for the rap off the summit to the slabby descent.
By Will Gilkison
From: Wheatland, CA
Aug 25, 2013
Timmaly -

We used your gear to rap down after summiting via the East Ridge Route, it's still in good shape, although no longer green.
By SWGuillemot
Jun 3, 2015
The scramble in took a quite a bit more than an hour and a half. Granted this was my first time off trail in the back country. I would allow a bit more time and start early in the day if you are not experienced in back country hiking. The green sling and biners were gone, so I left one of my own for the rap down. Please leave for the good of the order!
By splitclimber
Sep 15, 2015
give yourself 2 hours for the approach. The rocky/brushy gully is a much better approach than the slabs.

The walk off is easy. downclimb past the small pillar to the notch, climb up a 8 foot rock flake to a sloped top out. It is easy and there is no need to rap the mountaineer's route.
By Xocomil
From: South Lake Tahoe
Dec 20, 2015
If you go up here and don't do the traverse, it isn't really worth it. I found the entire traverse (leading up improbable gendarmes, bouldering and simulclibing etc) to be a ton of fun.
By MacksWhinetub
From: Squaw
1 day ago
Tahoe mini alpine climbing. I like to approach up the slabs but scramble down the rocky gully directly to Eagle Lake for a little swim. The views from the top are stupidly gorgeous. I suppose you could rap from the top, but I've always downclimbed the westish side.

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