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Eagle Hardware 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pat Thompson, Mark Rolofson, 1998
Page Views: 1,153
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Stars and Stripes Wall.

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  • Description 

    Eagle Hardware sits squarely in the middle of the Stars and Stripes Wall just where a steep ramp system takes off to the right. The route starts on an obvious block that has both a belay anchor and the first climbing bolt. A couple of minor overlaps can be quickly disposed of using good incut edges. This will deposit the climber at a system of parallel grooves or seams in very blackish rock. These unusual features reminded me more of limestone runnels than cracks. They can be lay-backed or directly jammed as one of the 5.11 cruxes. A small corner system and another crux at 5.10+ takes you to the anchor. This route gets three stars for quality, the climbing moves, and the continuity. However, I almost knocked off a star for the over-bolting. I found myself being annoyed by the bolts that came up too frequently, and even skipped a couple in the early part of the climb. I first climbed this route with the stupendous Henry Lester, and he too complained of the excess bolting. As I recall, he clipped perhaps no more than 8 of the bolts. Nonetheless, this route is a classic Boulder Canyon climb and a must do at Eagle Rock.

    Protection 

    QD only. This is an 80ft route with 13 or 14 bolts and a double bolt anchor.


    Photos of Eagle Hardware Slideshow Add Photo
    Route ascends obvious black streak. Crux at 7th bolt, a steep thin crack, then still cruxy above that just holding on.
    BETA PHOTO: Route ascends obvious black streak. Crux at 7th bo...
    Mark leading Eagle Hardware, after steep thin crack crux.
    Mark leading Eagle Hardware, after steep thin crac...

    Comments on Eagle Hardware Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 14, 2012
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 4, 2003

    I was hoping someone could also bolt the approach slab to this climb, because I felt it was fairly run-out compared to the route. Thank god there was a rap anchor at the base of the route or I would have made it safely to the ground. Also, I appreciatied the fact that my mid-section was just as well protected throughout this route as my feet and chest were as I strained for the next bolt. Good job protecting this route!!!
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 8, 2003

    The insane redpoint crux: not Z-clipping.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 17, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I found this to be not as good as others have said. Mediocre (but solid) rock at the bottom, not particularly interesting moves. Just a pump.

    The bolts at the bottom are absurd, beginning with 2 belay (or bivvy?) bolts with another belay bolt just to the left. Then several bolts about 4 feet apart on easy ground. Perhaps some of these were added by another party. One bolt in the first 15 feet would be plenty. Once it gets hard, the bolts are still pretty close, but at least they make sense thre. I clipped them all, being really pumped, as this was the last climb of the afternoon.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 24, 2005

    Could have been a good route, if it weren't so grossly over-bolted. Good job on ruining another nice piece of stone.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 24, 2005

    A fun route, but hysterically over bolted.
    By ?????
    Oct 25, 2005

    Absolutely no joke the bolt ladder on the Grand Wall has more generous spacing on it that this route. Someone could have bolted this route on lead from aiders, never venturing into their top step and still would have placed the bolts further apart.
    By ac
    Oct 25, 2005

    Why don't you post which bolts could or should be safely or easily skipped. Then perhaps we could eventually agree on which bolts should eventually be removed? If fixed pro is unecessary, clean it. Just stating that it is overbolted does not bring us forward.
    By ac
    Oct 25, 2005

    Uh ... yeah. Have you seen what happens to people on this site and in the community when someone removes a bolt? Retro-bolts? Changes fixed gear in any way, any where, under any circumstances?

    If you haven't, one word: pirahnas.

    It's probably easy for many to agree that Rolofson/whomever over bolted the hell out of many routes, the Eagle's (otherwise fun) routes included. But try to get consensus to change it... fuggedaboutit.
    By ac
    Oct 25, 2005

    Everyone will not agree. Pipe up about what bolts you think are not needed, eventually someone with a wrench will fix the route, or not. If I could climb more than 5.5- I would do it myself :-o
    By Darko Sarenac
    From: boulder, co
    Sep 18, 2007
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    The bolting worked just fine for my wife Cath for whom this was the first ever lead, indoor or outdoor.
    By YDPL8S
    From: Santa Monica, Ca.
    Sep 18, 2007

    A 5.11d for the first lead ever? I think that pretty much shows what the over-bolting issue does to this climb. I'm sure the moves are still hard, over my head. But don't listen to me, I'm one of those old ethic farts that used to try and push using fine clay instead of chalk in your chalk bag (never did like that climb by following the dots thing).
    By Mark Rolofson
    Nov 14, 2012

    Pat Thompson is responsible for bolting & cleaning this route. I was just the first person to freeclimb it. I bolted most of the other climbs at Eagle Rock. Yes, it could have been done with less bolts, but so what? I have climbed it many times to warm up for harder routes, and it's a great climb. If you don't like it, then don't clip all the bolts or go to another crag & leave this wall for those of us who like it. I have met many people who have climbed this route and loved all the bolts. What really find trully amazing is all the comments from Anonymous Cowards! You guys are really chickenshits for not having the balls to post your real names.