The Swimming hole at the entrance of Eagle Falls C...
This crag runs alongside the Beaver River just downstream from Beaver Lake. The rock is very brittle, but has unusual hidden holds that make the faces, aretes, and roofs very climbable. The natural crack lines tend to be chossy and, due to the nature of the brittle rock, a bit suspect.
This cliff is in a pleasant, remote area with open woods and great swimming holes a mere feet away. There is no road noise; in fact, the sound of the pounding rapids is so load that communication with a leader is often impossible.
The cliff is packed with high quality lines, most of which were put up since 2008, so they aren't in the guidebook. Instead, look here: www.adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm
Highlights are Class Five, one of the largest climbable roofs in the Adirondacks that sits above a noisy rapid, Promiscuous Girl, a stunning arete, and El Supremo, a tricky, super-exposed face.
From Lowville, follow Number Four Road to near its end. About 1/2 mile east of the intersection with Stillwater Road, turn left onto Soft Maple Road. Go about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto another dirt road signed "Beaver River Canoe Route". Drive 1/2 mile and park on the left.
Cross the road, walk down the stairs under the penstock, then follow a trail to the cliff. Wade or swim across (in high water) to the cliff. There is also a wood plank (stashed in the woods) that is used to cross a narrow section of the river across from Ravenous.
Browse More Classics in Eagle Falls
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Falls:
Featured Route For Eagle Falls
: Eagle Falls
Ascends the right side of the largest and most prominent roof system known as Eagle Buttress. A one-move wonder, but what a move! At least the bolt is above your head.Go up a short crack (red Alien, bolt) and through overhanging blocky terrain to an open book corner. Up the corner (0.5 Camalot), then move left onto the orange wall. Up the wall to a good stance below the overhanging face above. Make a hard, crimpy, highstep (crux) and dyno for the thank-god bucket. Heel hook and mantel onto the e...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
These flowers are all over the top of the face.
From: Watertown, NY
Mar 19, 2012
In the Spring the river really flows strongly and can easily sweep you off your feet. Instead of crossing the river where the guidebook says, bring an extra pair of shoes and just walk across the river where it widens. THe easiest spot I have seen is directly in front of you when you walk down the stairs under the green pipe. Your feet will get wet & cold, but thats better than falling in a deeper area and getting swept into the swimming hole.
| || |Slower water to cross, but guaranteed to get your feet wet. Directly across from the stairs.
Submitted By: SwineFlew on Mar 19, 2012
|By Alex Mitchell|
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 3, 2012
A very cool area with lots of great climbs on solid, mostly clean rock. We did not know they were doing a release of the river so the river was about 2 feet higher when we left as when we came. I ended up dropping my rope in the river and getting pretty wet to the amusement of the about two hundred people swimming and watching the kayakers.