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Eagle Rock
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Eagle Eyes 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: M. Rolofson, Oct. 1998
Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Oct 16, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: Stars and Stripes Wall.

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  • Description 

    This high quality route is located between Eagle Chick (left) and Eagle Hardware (right) and starts from a ledge with bolts. Fire up the steep wall with nice jugs (5.9 and 5.10 climbing), then work through the cruxy bulge with thin cracks. More thin cracks and interesting face climbing leads to the next crux. Both cruxes seemed about 5.11 or 5.11+. The final roof is easier than it looks, and is a nice finish to a good climb.

    Protection 

    10 bolts, nothing but draws needed.


    Photos of Eagle Eyes Slideshow Add Photo
    Eagle Eyes route (center). Ascends a lieback seam ...
    BETA PHOTO: Eagle Eyes route (center). Ascends a lieback seam ...

    Comments on Eagle Eyes Add Comment
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    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 4, 2012

    I thought this route seemed soft at 12a, and I am not usually one to downgrade. However, the climbing is surprisingly good. I had been up to Eagle Rock a long time ago and thought everything looked like choss, but I made a mistake. Recently, having limited options for shade and time, I headed up. I did a couple of 5.10s, this route, and an 11b/c. Overall, I was quite impressed with all the routes and many deserve more stars than the actual guidebook gives them. Worth a visit for sure. Great crag if your climbing in the 11 range given that is what most of the routes are....
    By Mark Rolofson
    Dec 11, 2012
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Orginally the crux was a bit harder, with poor holds on the sloping shelf around the 9th bolt. When I climbed this route in 2007, someone must have pulled out a small piece of quartz, leaving a nice incut.
    This made a move easier. Still the route felt about .12a.