Eagle Chick  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Rick Leitner, Leo Paik, September 1998 Submitted By:  Ivan Rezucha on Oct 16, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Stars and Stripes Wall.

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Eagle Rock MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Eagle Chick is another good sport route on the Stars and Stripes Wall. I liked it better than the similarly-graded Eagle Hardware. Eagle Chick has better rock and more interesting moves, and is less pumpy, but still steep. A steep, blank-looking face leads to crux moves entering and exiting a tiny, left-facing corner.

I'm rating this 11a by Boulder Canyon sport ratings. It would be about 10c by trad ratings, unless you are short, in which case the last move could be pretty hard. Like several other routes here, the easy ground at the bottom seems overbolted.

Start just right of the "warm up" route, Eagle Snacks, which starts just right of the small pine tree. Over an easy ceiling and up easy rock to another ceiling. Climb a steep unlikely looking face between two thin cracks to good holds. Move right a bit and enter a shallow, short left facing corner. This was the crux for me--the obvious way almost worked, but didn't. Good rest here, then another hard move to exit the corner. This last move may be the crux if you are shorter.

Protection 

10 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor with rings.

Photos of Eagle Chick Slideshow

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In the middle of it.	Mark Roth on Eagle Chick, getting ready for the st...	Mark working crux.