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This is Cochiti's "summer crag" offering more shade than other Cochiti crags. There are roughly 30 routes, many of which are in the 5.10/11 range, making this a good crag for intermediate climbers. Routes here tend to be longer than at the Mesa, with one excellent line featuring 13 bolts. Eagle Canyon is also home to Cochiti's hardest route, the excellent test piece Didgemaster.
Follow driving directions as for Cochiti Mesa, but park at a big switchback in the road where a sign marks the "Dome Wilderness Trail". Park here but follow a climber's trail that branches off left from the Dome Trail within 20 feet of the parking area. The trail heads West for about 50 feet, then turns right and contours along a steep slope for several hundred yards, before turning left (W) into the mouth of Eagle Canyon. Continue up the mouth of the canyon for 5 minutes until the cliffs are visible on the left. Several poorly-defined trails lead up to various points along the cliff-base.
Routes (From Left to Right)
The first 9 routes are accessed from the first split off on the Eagle Canyon trail.
23 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Eagle Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Canyon:
Manhattan 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 82'
Mr. Wong's Zipper 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Turkey Baster 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Bananarama 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Unnamed Right 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 65'
Maalox Moment 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Tutti Frutti 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Unnamed Left 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 90'
Are You Lichen It? 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 50'
Psycho Thriller 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a TR, 70'
New Wave 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 50'
Top Hat 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 95'
Pepto-Dismal 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 53'
Jug Abuse 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Racist Fantasy 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Bunga Bunga 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 90'
Kona 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport
Indecent Insertion 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 70'
Handsome Parish Lady 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Didgemaster 5.13+ 8b 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For Eagle Canyon
Bunga Bunga 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon
Another excellent, long line. This route features sustained difficulty with numerous hard sections split by good rests. The route begins at the base of the west-facing wall and heads up, veering right as you ascend. The access trail to Didgemaster offers great opportunities for photography, making this line quite photogenic.The route begins relatively easily. After about 25 feet, head right via sequential pockets left of the cave pod, where a good shake is possible. Continue up left of th...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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