Eagle Canyon and the Head of Sinbad (north) are located in the San Rafeal Swell north of I-70. There are several climbs in these two areas, mainly towers, that are already described in Bjorstad's Desert Rock II Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell. There is much to explore in these areas, not only new rock climbs but these beatiful and spectacular areas are ideal for hiking.
A wire gate into the Head of Sinbad area is located on the North side of I-70 35.8 miles heading west from the town of Green River. The Eagle Canyon area is further down I-70 through a iron gate that is 40 miles from Green River. Access to The Head of Sinbad can also be made on sandy roads from Ranch Exit 131 that leads to Buckhorn Wash and the San Rafael campsite by driving under I-70, and then heading south on dirt roads and after about 7.5 miles back under I-70. However, it is easier if the wire gate is located 7.3 miles past the Ranch Exit 131. The wire gate is just after mile marker 125. The iron gate that leads to the Eagle Canyon area is located 12.5 miles from Ranch Exit 131 just after mile marker 121 and leads to a highway maintenance shed, opposite is a short dirt road to a good campsite below the rock wall.
Browse More Classics in Eagle Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Canyon:
Featured Route For Eagle Canyon
Toviah Tower 5.8+ UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Toviah Tower
Toviah Tower III 550' 5.8+. The route starts from the gully (SW side of the tower) on the right that separates Toviah from Nemo. Its about a half hour easy walk from campsite. Midway along the walk the White Knight tower can be seen on the left about a mile down in the Eagle Canyon area. Toviah Tower is unusual for a desert tower in that the crux pitches involve slab climbing. P1) Walk into the gully, and the route starts up the slab just right of a large dead tree leaning against the roc...[more] Browse More Classics in UT