|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||TM Herbert and Gordon Webster, July 1966|
|Submitted By:||Bruce Hildenbrand on Mar 28, 2012|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Eagle Buttress, Right Side||Add Comment|
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From: Reno, NV
Sep 27, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This is a real hidden gem (I guess mostly because of the nesting closures).
Had no trouble doing this in 4 pitches, we combined the last two 4th class pitches.
Supertopo calls P2 5.9 and P3 5.10a. I disagree, I think P2 is 10a/b and P3 is 5.9.
The P2 overhanging hand traverse followed by the roof and dyke hiking is committing and strenuous, and amazingly fun. Fantastic exposure. And the start to this pitch is pretty tough too, definitely lasso the knob for pro.
Found 3 pins on the route, all a bit rusty.
Took a #4 and used it, but you don't really need it.
Great climb, go do it and clean up the bit of vegetation on it (P4&5 has lots of vegetation which isn't going anywhere, oh well).