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Eagle Buttress, Right Side 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: TM Herbert and Gordon Webster, July 1966
Page Views: 1,150
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Mar 28, 2012

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caughtinside nears the P1 belay on Eagle Buttress ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The pitch off Main Ledge is the business, a succession of mantles on dikes up a steep wall to a spectacular hand traverse right to an overhang. Surmount the overhang and belay. Climb a crack system to a wide gully then follow the Eagle Buttress, Left Side route for 200' to the top.

Location 

Follow the first two pitches of Eagle Buttress, Left Side to get to Main Ledge. From there follow a series of steep dikes on the right side of Eagle Buttress. Follow the standard Central Wall descent walk off.

Protection 

Gear up to 3"


Photos of Eagle Buttress, Right Side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Pitch 2. Lasso the horn for protection.
Looking up Pitch 2. Lasso the horn for protection.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dow lassoing the horn at the start of Pitch 2.
Dow lassoing the horn at the start of Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Pitch 1, which goes leftward up the dik...
Looking up Pitch 1, which goes leftward up the dik...
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber contemplates the steep hand-traverse on ...
A climber contemplates the steep hand-traverse on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches 4 & 5 to the top....ug....but they go quic...
Pitches 4 & 5 to the top....ug....but they go quic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3. Probably the best pitch on the route.
Pitch 3. Probably the best pitch on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Peregrine feather en route. This route is closed i...
Peregrine feather en route. This route is closed i...

Comments on Eagle Buttress, Right Side Add Comment
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By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Sep 27, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a real hidden gem (I guess mostly because of the nesting closures).
Had no trouble doing this in 4 pitches, we combined the last two 4th class pitches.

Supertopo calls P2 5.9 and P3 5.10a. I disagree, I think P2 is 10a/b and P3 is 5.9.

The P2 overhanging hand traverse followed by the roof and dyke hiking is committing and strenuous, and amazingly fun. Fantastic exposure. And the start to this pitch is pretty tough too, definitely lasso the knob for pro.

Found 3 pins on the route, all a bit rusty.
Took a #4 and used it, but you don't really need it.

Great climb, go do it and clean up the bit of vegetation on it (P4&5 has lots of vegetation which isn't going anywhere, oh well).

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