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 ADVANCED
Eagle Bluff

Select Route:
All seriousness aside  S 
Alleyway T 
Amber Waves of Grain S 
Another Bolted Face Climb S 
Attitude Adjuster T 
Bivy Route S 
Blaze of Glory S 
Chinese Water Torture Direct S 
Corner Line T 
Crankcase T,S,TR 
Delirious S 
Eagle Direct T,S 
Eagle Has Landed, The S 
Eagle's Gift, The S 
Easy Stuff T 
Element 115 S 
Entrance Exam S 
Happy Face S 
highlander T,S 
Longitudinal Wave S 
No Rest for the Wicked S 
Pried and Joy T,S 
Punks in the Gunks T,S 
Reckless Abandon S 
Root of Choice T 
Route Awakening S 
Slice of the Gunks T 
Talus Scout S,TR 
Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 
Texas Two Step T,S 
Upside down staircase T 
Walk on the Mild Side S 
Wave Guide S 
What's In a Name? S 
Wheaties S 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Witch Wonder T 

Eagle Bluff  


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Location: 44.79328, -68.49643 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,272
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Oct 5, 2008
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Description 

Eagle Bluff is CLiftons most popular and well known climbing area with over 130 routes. Climbers of all kind will find enjoyable lines, with the majority of the routes ranging from 5.9-5.11 sport.

Getting There 

From the intersection of route 9 and 180, drive 2.6 miles south on route 180. Just after a gated gravel road on the left, look for a small dirt pullout and the approach trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.7 miles from here

37 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',10],['5.11',6],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Eagle Bluff:
Easy Stuff   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Pried and Joy   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Witch Wonder   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Upside down staircase   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Slice of the Gunks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Walk on the Mild Side   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Happy Face   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Wheaties   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Tax Is Too Steep   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Crankcase   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Bivy Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Eagle's Gift   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
highlander   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 165'   
Attitude Adjuster   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
All seriousness aside    5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Entrance Exam   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Blaze of Glory   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Where Eagles Dare   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Chinese Water Torture Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Eagle Direct   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Eagle Bluff

Featured Route For Eagle Bluff
Crux Roof of Eagle's Gift

The Eagle's Gift 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff
An awesome route with thin slab/face climbing plus a small roof.Start up a slab trending slightly left past bolts and some small ledges to base of roof. Pull over the roof to an alcove and move right to an airy bolt anchor around corner. 165' of rope will just get you back to the ground....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

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Map of Eagle Bluff Property
BETA PHOTO: Map of Eagle Bluff Property

Comments on Eagle Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Travis Dustin
From: Hollis, NH
Jul 6, 2012
What is the approach like?
By Scott Brown
Oct 29, 2012
10-15 minutes
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Feb 10, 2014
kintera.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH...

Eagle bluff is currently closed due to access issues. Please follow this link and donate as much as you can to help save this amazing area.
By nealg
Jun 16, 2014
Anyone know the current access status of Eagle Bluff in Clifton? Climbed there 15+ years ago and was returning for a Maine trip.

Open or closed?

thx!
By maineah
From: Maine
Jun 25, 2014
As far as I know, permanent access is being negotiated and Eagle's is open for now
By nealg
Aug 13, 2014
Definitely open. Just spent a day there last week after an 18 year hiatus. Was shocked how much lichen was on many of the classics.

Why is the place getting so little traffic? It is my favorite place in ME.
By TJHussey
From: Newburgh, ME
Sep 29, 2014
I was climbing next to a Clifton Climber's Alliance board member last week who said the land purchase was just made recently-- it will allow public access & climbing to continue at Eagle Bluff!