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Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Arches. T 
Beak Buttress (the nose), The T 
Bert's climb T 
Bert's Right Facing Corner  T 
Bolted face E3 or Black Velvet S 
Bolted face Route E1 S 
Bolted Face Route E2 or Power Failure S 
Bolted face Route E4 or Slab Happy S 
Bolted face route E5 or Van Burren Route S 
E12 T 
E6 or White Lightning T,S 
E8 or Leading cause  T 
E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. T 
Energizer E10 T 
giant dead tree corner, The T 
Great Circle Route, The T 
Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7  T 
R&B T 
Rapper, The T 
Revelations or E11 T 
Spare Ribs T 
Variations to Bert's Climb  T 
W1  T 
W2 T 
W3 T 
W4 T 
W5 T 
W6 T 

E12 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bradley White and Andy Byerly, 1983
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 26, 2009

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Description 

There are several identical looking left facing corners off of the ground in this section. To do this climb get off of the ground when spotted is the (5-7+) boulder slab problem. This problem starts above a spike of rock. Get past the slab problem by clipping a bugaboo pin midway through it for protection easily seen from the ground. After clipping the pin move up right to a dirt ramp and up it to a giant pine tree, diagonally left of the pin. After the tree climb easily up by a root of it as a hand hold to corners and belay at a short but strong oak tree (semi-hanging belay).
Head up the corner on the left to another corner flake. Climb flake and when able traverse left to oak tree belay. Leave tree belay to gain slab with arch, follow arch run out (5-6) to put in belay strength protection at center of arch above the slab. Down climb slab until able to go left and up (5-10-). The (5-10) moves are at the near maximum pendulum back across the slab to where you started. The furthest pendulum is where the slab ends by down climbing traversing onto another arching corner. Do the long reach around the slab to the inside corner finger jam crack and drop (5-8) into place. Your now in the corner (5-7). You can gear in it but the gear has to come out afterward when you set up a higher up belay, because the person seconding the (5-10-) traverse otherwise will be set up for a serious fall. Therefore both the leader and the second are into the same lead performance position after the gear is out of this corner. Finish up the corner past vintage piton and move right onto tree ledge below a low angle ramp system. Climb ramps up right (5-2+) to rocks that are like stairs 40ft of no pro to enable you to get past 10ft obstacle, the blank inclining head wall. Above the step rocks was a boulder, that came off the cliff during my second ascent. It being gone changed the finish to hand traverse left until a foot hold providing the push needed to gain the summit (5-8). Belay off of a tree at the top.

Location 

Giant Oak tree on the far right on the east side of the cliff, pin above spike of rock visibly seen from the ground.

Protection 

Trad. Rack, stoppers and a full range of hexes. Walk down right side or east side. Rappelling Oak trees is possible to ground with 2 50m ropes. Be smart about loose rocks on west side of oak trees. East side of Oak trees is perfecto.


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