|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 135'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA:||Todd Paris, Jay Harrison|
|Submitted By:||Tparis on Sep 14, 2009|
|Comments on E-stim||Add Comment|
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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
|Second pitch was awesome, comes close (but stays slightly right) to linking up with Carp&Daz near the top, and shares many of its unique features and fun climbing.|
By Jay Harrison
Apr 23, 2012
Couple notes re: 2nd pitch:
1. There are two obvious notches cutting across the right-facing corner; this route takes the upper one. It does not go through the overhanging notch above the corner, nor does it traverse the lower notch (this can be done, but it is very awkward).
2. Leaders should take care to protect their followers on the traverse through this notch. I've seen two followers scrape across this face when they fell starting the traverse. Not really dangerous, but unpleasant.
3. The original route does not follow the upper horizontal all the way over to join Carpenter & Das; it climbs up a slabby face after stepping to the outside of the buttress, then moves right to gain the top ledge before traversing out to the anchors or trees. This is definitely PG turf, about 5.4 difficulty. The full traverse has better protection, so many leaders opt to do it. Remember to protect the follower!