|Black Arches Wall
Start: At a hand crack that becomes an offwidth 20' up, 10' left of the right end of the Isobuttress and 25' right of Recuperation Boulevard.
P1 5.6 G: Climb the crack through the steep wall to easier-angled rock. Step up and left to a nice handcrack and follow it to a large spruce (fixed anchor). 50'
P2 5.5 PG: Climb up left along a crack–ramp to a right-facing corner. Up this corner for 8' to the second notch breaking left around the corner. Take this and move up and left to join Recuperation Boulevard shortly before reaching the summit anchors. 85'
Standard Trad rack. A #4 and #5 Camalot useful for P1.
Todd Paris starts out the FA of E-Stim.
Topping out on the FA of E-Stim.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Second pitch was awesome, comes close (but stays slightly right) to linking up with Carp&Daz near the top, and shares many of its unique features and fun climbing.
|By Jay Harrison|
Apr 23, 2012
Couple notes re: 2nd pitch:
1. There are two obvious notches cutting across the right-facing corner; this route takes the upper one. It does not go through the overhanging notch above the corner, nor does it traverse the lower notch (this can be done, but it is very awkward).
2. Leaders should take care to protect their followers on the traverse through this notch. I've seen two followers scrape across this face when they fell starting the traverse. Not really dangerous, but unpleasant.
3. The original route does not follow the upper horizontal all the way over to join Carpenter & Das; it climbs up a slabby face after stepping to the outside of the buttress, then moves right to gain the top ledge before traversing out to the anchors or trees. This is definitely PG turf, about 5.4 difficulty. The full traverse has better protection, so many leaders opt to do it. Remember to protect the follower!