This is an alternative to the oft-crowded East Slab. Also completely independent, unlike East of the Sun and East Slab East, so you won't feel like you are encroaching upon those on the East Slab. It is to the right of East Slab, aim for the black streak.
Start at the upper/easier start to East Slab up easy terrain to a right-angling finger crack. Place pro, perhaps Alien(s) too and move up and right. Pay attention to where the foot holds are or you will have to smear. Move up and left into a groove with a bucket. Then up and left up a ramp. Follow a short crack up. Now, you are near the black streak. Move up under the little overlap/roof. Here you can move left (easier) and pop over the overlap with a jug and easy left foot holds or move up and right (harder) up a hand crack and fire over the overlap/roof. Fire to the top. It is perhaps, 100 feet overall.
Now, you can catch a ride up the East Slab.
Standard rack to #3 Friend (#2 Camalot).
BETA PHOTO: Could this be the finger crack?
|By Dmitriy Zinchenko|
Sep 15, 2002
The finger crack is the 5.7 crux of the route, and you do have to smear a bit. The other 5.7 part is the right hand-jam exit, protected with a 2" cam.
A good variation to this route that greatly reduced rope drag is to get to the ramp and continue straight up via a series of right-facing flakes. This way is more sustained 5.6 (with less pro) but gets you directly to the black streak. The (harder) right exit ends with a sloping 3" crack, so don't be surprised. Great naturals for the top anchor, though.
|By Scott Edlin|
From: boulder, co
Jul 11, 2006
I started the direct start of East Slab, but when I pulled onto the upper slab and saw someone trying to toss topropes down the route, I cut right and followed the right leaning crack to the black streak and pulled the easy jug roof. This was 5.6 for the East Slab direct start and felt no harder than 5.5 for the rest.
|By Sean Haney|
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
Seemed pretty runout through the slab section to me. Probably only 15ft to easy climbing, but then another 6ft to some tiny nut possibilities, then another 6 to a bomber #2 Camalot. Perhaps I was off route, but I went up what I thought was a reasonable line to the black streak. Also, I thought the crux was in the upper half of the slab (the runout section), rather than the finger crack down low, where I didn't feel that I was smearing.
|By Arlo F Niederer|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 17, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
The crux is the finger crack trending right, with fingers in the crack and smearing on the face, above the drop off for a little excitement. But bomber pro here.
Didn't think the slab was runout...but I've been trad climbing for a long time....
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I'm with Arlo. The fingercrack is the crux (I'd call it 5.7), and there was plenty of gear on the slab. Fun climb!