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Cactus Flower Tower Summit
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Blood on the Tracks T 
Cinnamon Hedgehog T 
East Arete T 
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Warrior, The T 

East Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Larry DeAngelo, John Hegyes
Page Views: 715
Submitted By: fossana on Jan 8, 2014

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From the gully we ended up on a rib that was parti...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On my most recent trip to Red Rocks I was paging through Handren's guide for something more remote with a reasonable amount of vertical. It was also early January, so I knew I couldn't go overboard with the minimal amount of daylight. The E Arete, noted as a worthy alpine style excursion, caught my eye. There was barely any beta listed in Handren beyond the approach and the fact it starts in the gully. I had done the approach to Inti Watana twice before and the long descent off the summit once (mostly in the dark), so I realized it could be a long day but I wasn't going in completely blind. Larry kindly provided advice about the approximate start, rock quality and max sized gear. Lastly, I convinced one of my Sierra partners to tag along.

Editorial Commentary
It's definitely not sustained climbing (we soloed most of it) and there's plenty of shrubbery. Not surprisingly there was some friable rock in spots. But if you're down for an alpine-like adventure route with hard to beat summit views and don't have a ton of daylight, then this could be your route.

Route
It's a ridge traverse of a fairly broad ridge, so it's kind of a choose your own adventure. Larry advised against the direct start, which is vegetated and lacks pro placements. Based on his advice start in the gully slightly uphill from the start of Gift of the Wind Gods. From here gain the ridge and follow it to the summit.

Sun
The lower portion of the route quickly goes into the shade during the winter.

Location 

Approach
Knowing that we would come out via Oak Creek Canyon and not wanting to drive the loop road, we parked at the pullout 0.5 miles from the loop road exit near the old campground road.

Approach as for Inti Watana (see excellent approach beta from Eric and Lucie or Dow), but don't take the side gully coming in from the left. Instead continue up the main gully to an obvious saddle next to Aeolian Wall. Walk downhill for a short ways, then scramble up the steepening gully a short ways until you find a suitable spot to surmount the ridge. This took us a little over 2 hours, although I am reasonably familiar with the Inti Watana approach twice.

Descent
See the Cactus Flower summit descent listed for Cinnamon Hedgehog.

Protection 

alpine rack to a #3 Camalot will suffice; no fixed anchors; may want to bring webbing to backup the rap station(s)


Photos of East Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: heading toward the entrance of the approach gully ...
heading toward the entrance of the approach gully ...
Rock Climbing Photo: morning light on Mt Wilson and Cactus Flower Tower
morning light on Mt Wilson and Cactus Flower Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: your reward for making the summit, view of Rainbow...
your reward for making the summit, view of Rainbow...
Rock Climbing Photo: very approximate route (white dots mark where the ...
BETA PHOTO: very approximate route (white dots mark where the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Miguel on the final pitch
Miguel on the final pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: view from the tower second from the notch
view from the tower second from the notch
Rock Climbing Photo: the E Arete; unless you like vegetated runout clim...
BETA PHOTO: the E Arete; unless you like vegetated runout clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: lots of slab walking to get down into the canyon
lots of slab walking to get down into the canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: We skirted the first small tower.
We skirted the first small tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: the next set of towers after the notch
the next set of towers after the notch
Rock Climbing Photo: on the ridge proper with pretty good rock
on the ridge proper with pretty good rock
Rock Climbing Photo: the thin slab that starts the tower second from th...
the thin slab that starts the tower second from th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cinnamon Hedgehog from the E Arete
Cinnamon Hedgehog from the E Arete
Rock Climbing Photo: lots of options to the summit
lots of options to the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Aeolian Wall from the route
Aeolian Wall from the route
Rock Climbing Photo: one of the first set of downclimbs/raps on the des...
BETA PHOTO: one of the first set of downclimbs/raps on the des...
Rock Climbing Photo: our first roped pitch (probably a good thing as th...
our first roped pitch (probably a good thing as th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Oak Creek Canyon
Oak Creek Canyon

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