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 ADVANCED
Two Pines Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Deal T,TR 
Brother Without a Brain TR 
Crosstown Traffic T 
Dyspepsia T,TR 
Full Stop T,TR 
Grotto, The T,TR 
Hypoglycemia T,TR 
Jolly Gendarme T,TR 
L. S. D. T,TR 
Moderation T,TR 
Mouse Tracks T 
Mouse's Misery T,TR 
Mouse's Tail T,TR 
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus T,TR 
Rack, The T,TR 
Reprieve TR 
Schizophrenia T,TR 
Solar Eclipse T,TR 
Thoroughfare T 
Touch & Go T,TR 
Vacillation T,TR 

Dyspepsia 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Classic Cleveland title? One more physical malady.
Season: Any day of the year given the right conditions.
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Mar 12, 2012

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Doug on Dyspepsia crack on 3-10-12. He will soon ...

Description 

Takes the slabby crack system just right of the Pussy Galore's Flying Circus flake. There is a distinct cruxy section at about the 3/4 height where not so obvious holds must be worked just right and the feet hoisted up behind you.

Location 

Slabby crack and edges just to the right of the route Pussy Galore's Flying Circus and quite left of Schizophrenia route.

Protection 

Pretty good for gear of most sizes to be placed just at hand reach above solid stances.


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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Mar 12, 2012

You should always be wary of a route named for a disease!

The key gear is small, 1/8-1/2" stoppers in shallow but solid placements. Be careful not to kick or jostle it out as you move up past it! Fortunately, gear and stances come about every body length.

If the "approach" ramp weren't half the route, this would deserve 3 stars.