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 ADVANCED
Orange Crush
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anaconda-Da-Vida S 
Black Mamba S 
British Airways S 
Buried Treasure S 
Captain Hook S 
Chinese Water Torture T 
Citrasolve S 
Crusher, The S 
Drillary Step, The S 
Dynosoar S 
Flying Monkeys S 
Fresh Squeezed S 
King Cobra S 
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 
Oh My! finish S 
Opportunist, The S 
Orangahang S 
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 
Orange Sunshine S 
Original Orange Crush, The T 
Peter Pan S 
Predator S 
Prime Climb S 
Purple Microdot S 
Sir Edmond Drillary S 
Tin Man S 
Tin Monkeys S 
Tinkerbell S 
Tropicana S 
Vaporizer, The S 
White Snake S 

Dynosoar 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 4,247
Submitted By: seth hamel on Aug 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Gabe staying with it after pulling the dyno.

Description 

What can be said about dynosoar? Big moves. Big holds. Start off as for Flying monkeys and break right and up (don't go straight out right, that is Lions, Tigers, and Bears ). Climb the facey section of Flying Monkeys and then get into a roof with big holds. Pull 4 big moves and prepare for a hard move off of pinch, then followed by a dyno after clipping, follow big jugs to the top. Lots of fun, enjoy the pump factor.

Location 

The upper left tier of the crag. You can belay off the same ledge used for Orangahang, or you can belay from beneath the slab.

Protection 

Permi-draws.... around 8 bolts to LO.


Photos of Dynosoar Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up Dynosoar - unknown climber
Starting up Dynosoar - unknown climber
Tim Greene sticking the throw to the brick
Tim Greene sticking the throw to the brick
Me on an Onsight attempt, so close!
Me on an Onsight attempt, so close!
Gabe about to pull the crux.
Gabe about to pull the crux.
still on the onsight, only to have my hopes dashed on the final hard move
still on the onsight, only to have my hopes dashed...
Starting out the roof - unknown climber
Starting out the roof - unknown climber
I fell from here SO many times until I was told me about the L toe hook/scum to get the last crimp. Thanks Walker!
I fell from here SO many times until I was told me...
Tim Greene on the first hard move under the roof
Tim Greene on the first hard move under the roof

Comments on Dynosoar Add Comment
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By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jan 29, 2010

MMmmmmm great photos
davevuono.com/dave_vuono_photo...
davevuono.com/dave_vuono_photo...
davevuono.com/dave_vuono_photo...

More beautiful shots at davevuono.com/newhampshire.htm...
By stow
May 15, 2011

The 4 old fixed draws on Dyno-soar replaced by black-tubed Climb-Tech steel cable permadraws May 12, 2011. This should improve the safety on this route - the fixed draws were in bad shape - but be aware the new draws are harder to grab when working the route.
By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Aug 8, 2011

Permadraws were long overdue on this route. Glad to see it.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 8, 2011

I'm glad the old tat got taken out. Thanks.

Somebody didn't like this route. One star?? WTF? :))
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Jeez Mark, I don't think my insignificant opinion is worth a 'WTF'....(said with a smile).

Let me explain. One day I looked through my star ratings and I realized that I was giving virtually every route 3-4 stars, mostly because I have fun on almost everything. However, that policy doesn't help differentiate between absolute classics and routes that are just okay. A one star route doesn't mean the route is not good, it just isn't amazing. Though I have not climbed extensively at Rumney, let me use a couple climbs there as an example. I thought Beat Junkie was freaking superb (soooo good); 4 stars at any crag. I really enjoyed Great White because I really like technical vertical climbing; good route, but not long enough to be classic...3 stars. Tin Monkeys was fun, but none of the climbing was super memorable; however, the route is long and it was pretty fun...2 stars. Now this leaves me with Dynosaur. I thought the first 2/3 of the route (i.e. getting to the rest below the crux) were a big shrug. You then climb a boulder problem and clip the anchors. Now, the boulder problem is fun, but its pretty short and that means the bulk of the good climbing is like 20 feet long. Thus, because I think Tin Monkeys was better, I can only justify one star. I think my opinion of the route is exactly what MP defines one star as: okay.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 8, 2011

All right. I agree with the need to keep the star inflation down for the ratings to have any meaning. I have been trying to do the same myself. One star for that route was just so far out of the norm from any other opinions that I have heard. I could see 3, or 2 if the bottom didn't do a lot for you, but 1 put it in the ranks of some pretty so so routes. Different strokes... I wasn't as miffed as I made it sound, more just impulsively commenting on a hot muggy day. It is funny to see how different people rate different routes.

..and no Christmas card from me, calling my dog ugly.
By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Oct 21, 2011

Agree the new climbtechs are harder to grab... but I think it was worth it for the safety factor. Maybe next time I'll bring a few draws just for pulling on. Very low-impact - they disappear in a sea of tatt.