Dynosaur 5.12c
| 989 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | Kevin McLaughlin, 5/88 |
| Submitted By: | Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006 |
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Dynosoar, 5.12, setting up for the launch.
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Description What a great name! I wouldn't say I did any "soaring", but there definitely was some dynoing. A powerful and desperate boulder problem getting to the second bolt defines this route. Vastly easier and enjoyable jug hauling gets you to the top from there. The guidebook warns about blowing the second clip, but the clip can be made from huge jugs. I think you could make the argument that most routes anywhere would put you in a bad spot if you blew the second clip!
Location This is two routes left of Bucket Slave.
Protection Bolts, stick clip.
A second dyno.
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Upper face moves.
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Glenn Schuler on the "Dyno".
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G. Schuler low on the "Dyno".
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By AndyMac
From: Center, CO
Apr 21, 2011
| Does this route start from the block out left? is it Dyno-soar? |
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 2, 2012
rating: 5.12b
| This should get retrobolted. Deck if you blow the first, deck if you blow the second, deck if you blow the third. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? |
By Mike Lane
From: Centennial, CO
Dec 2, 2012
| Keep an eye out for any more anchor-fixing events down there and be sure to put that idea forward then too. |
By Brent Butler
From: Del Norte, CO
May 27, 2013
| Nathan, what do you suggest for a correction?
As I remember it, there isn't much of an opportunity to clip a bolt between the current 1st and 2nd. Sure this creates a bit of a hazard, but even if there was a supplementary bolt, I'd probably skip it since it would be mid-crux, and as for getting to the 3rd? It's 4th class relative to what you just climbed through... don't fall off the giant buckets.
On the other hand, I wouldn't be totally opposed to another bolt in the upper portion past the bulge. I have done it in its current state, but it is a little scary. |
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.12b
| Man... I can't remember enough of it to make a suggestion, but if I recall, I would have liked to have seen the second and third clips moved down. I wasn't too bummed about the upper section as the climbing is all there and the fall isn't dangerous. |
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