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The Visor
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Dyno Monkey 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 1,178
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Nick Strohecker preparing for the big move.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on the Visor, which is a small overhanging wall at the top end of the Surprising Crag. The route takes the steepest line possible up the left side of the wall, connecting some obvious jugs. It starts about 10 or 15 feet from the left edge of the wall. NOTE: This is the most heavily modified piece of rock I have ever seen or could ever imagine. There is no way on earth that the jugs on this thing could have even started out as natural holds. All are completely comfortized for your dynoing pleasure. That said, it is fun, and the huge dyno is great for photo-ops. Also, the grade is probably more like a mid 5.11 (other sources call it 12b, however), but if you're short it is more difficult.


Protection 

6 quickdraws (including 2 for the anchor). All bolts are brand new and totally bomber, and there are two rap bolts at the top.



Photos of Dyno Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Pete Franzen climbing manufactured jugs on Dyno Monkey.
Pete Franzen climbing manufactured jugs on Dyno Mo...
If only my arm was 6 inches longer...
If only my arm was 6 inches longer...
Pete Franzen on the crux final move of Dyno Monkey
Pete Franzen on the crux final move of Dyno Monkey
Coming down after a long day at the Sport Park.
Coming down after a long day at the Sport Park.
Comments on Dyno Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 6, 2001

Well, it's probably a number grade too high. A similar, but harder route at Smith Rocks (Toxic), is rated 11b.

By Andrew Hay
Feb 26, 2004

Great route and movement! A little soft though...wouldn't call it 12b, but well worth doing!

By TBlom
Aug 29, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The only 12 I've ever been to the anchors on. Sport Park is also home of the only 11d I've redpointed. Oh well, still had a great time on the route. A fun TR because no one gets to dog around after they fall off. I love huge jugs up overhangs, too bad they are man made. I'll do it again for sure though.