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 ADVANCED
The Hangdog Cafe
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Monkey S 
Crank Du Jour S 
Crimp Scampi S 
Dyne and Dash S 
Oldtimey Eleven, The S 
Wobbler Pudding S 

Dyne and Dash 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Season: late spring through fall
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: slim on Aug 27, 2012

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Description 

Dyne and Dash is a nice little route that makes a good 'quick' project. The route is short and can easily be broken down into a couple boulder problems. The rock is really good, the protection is excellent, and for the short length the variety and quality of the climbing is very good. There are 2 good warmups (10b and 11b) to the right and you can easily hang the draws for this one.

Begin just left of 'Crimp Scampi' near the right side of the wall. Tediously make your way up to the first bolt (stick clipping is a good idea, there is a fragile flake). Set up for the first crux and fight to a good rest. Decipher the upper crux, fighting the urge to step out right to easier climbing.

Both books give Dyne and Dash a single devil/star. I thought it was better - the only knocks on it being the short length and the temptation of moving out to the right onto 'Crimp Scampi' at the upper crux. The topo shows the lower crux as being 11b, which seemed way off. Do not underestimate this part (as I did my first time on the route) - this part actually gave me more trouble than the upper crux. The lower crux will probably punish the short, while the upper crux mangles the tall. It is an equal opportunity sort of route.

Location 

This is at the Hangdog Cafe, it is the 3rd route from the furthest right. This route is just right of the obvious, steep arete Blood Monkey.

Protection 

5 bolts (IIRC) and anchors.


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