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Dynamometer 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Moe Hershoff, Dan Hare, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,934
Submitted By: Greaser on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Moe put this great route up a few years ago. It is between Divination and Earth Voyage. This is one of the best climbs in Dream Canyon. Sustained, varied and asthetic.

I only did the first 2 pitches.

1.) Start between Divination and Earth Voyage and move up to the line of bolts between them. Two cruxes on this pitch. Reachy with gastons and lay aways. (12c to 13a, ~12 bolts).

2.) Go up and slightly left from the anchors and follow the bolts. Slightly easier than the first pitch. (11d, ~12 bolts).

Crimp strength and fancy foot work will pay off big on this stellar route.

Protection 

Lots of quick draws (15+) and a 60 meter rope.


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By Tom Painter
Nov 11, 2003

Greaser - thanks for putting this on the CB.C - just a small correction - this route lies between Divination (left) and Earth Voyage (right). The route between Autumn and Divination is a route that Dan Hare and I to a very small degree did last fall named Hunky Monkey.
By Greaser
Nov 12, 2003

Thanks for the correction, Tom.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 17, 2004

What determines whether this thing goes at 12c or 13a? Got on it today ... great first pitch.

By Greaser
Sep 17, 2004

That is, somewhere between 12c and 13a, a range. I'm not good at grading but that is where it would fall, I think. Harder if you don't have long arms and a little height.

Great route, though.
By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 20, 2005

Does anyone know what the second pitch goes at?
By Matt Henderson
Aug 9, 2010

Felt pretty hard to me - couldn't figure out the first crux at the flaring, thin crack. The section after that was pretty hard as well and felt like 12c all on its own. Bullet rock though and a great line.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Mostly fun climbing but with a bouldery and unpleasant crux. Great rock, I just wish the climbing was a bit more consistent. Awfully hard crux for it to be 5.12, though I guess every extra bit of ape you have would help considerably.