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Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The S 
Brown Palace, The S 
Convolution S 
Deceiver S 
Disneyland T,S 
Dynamite S 
Fool Me Twice T,S 
Frisky Lady S 
Just in Time S 
Lie Detector S 
Mary's Jugs S 
Mary's Tricks S 
Maternal Damnation S 
Moon Shadow S 
New Direction T 
Out Of Time S 
Proud Mary S 
Stuck In Time S 
There's Something About Mary T,S 
Violet Blue S 
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Dynamite 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: not sure
Page Views: 1,310
Submitted By: timoteo on Aug 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Crusher following the "run out" section....

Description 

This is an older route described in B. Gillett's "Rocky Mountain National Park" guidebook (2001). The physical crux is surmounting the initial overhanging, quartz ledges, but the mental one is a bit higher with at least 1 significant run-out, on 5.8 or .9 face climbing. This would be a nasty fall, hence the "R" rating.

Location 

The route is located about 20' left of "Maternal Damnation", at a significant section of creamy-pink quartz. A 60-meter rope will easily get you down.

Protection 

The route has 8 protection bolts, and a 2-bolt anchor.


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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 5, 2009

The first part is easy and not the crux. The crux is hard 9 or maybe 10a on runout face. Eric backed out. I went up to save the gear and ended up down climbing 15 feet of 10a. I thought the route was bolted on lead.
By timoteo
Aug 10, 2009

I guess you can debate what is "hard" or "easy", depending on your strengths/weaknesses, but what you will need to finish this route is very steady nerves. By no means a "Bachar-Yerian", but injurious fall potential exists here!
By Brian Stefanovic
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 30, 2010

I'm just wondering why there isn't a bolt in that run out section. There is plenty of room for it. It feels as though the closer you get to the next bolt, the harder it gets. Of course, that could just be my nerves. I backed off and also down-climbed about 15ft.
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

The runout seems out of place, both for the route and for the crag. Not super hard climbing, but pretty dangerous fall potential, particularly considering that you're climbing on crystals that keep breaking off. Fun route nevertheless. I'd like to see another bolt in there for safety's sake.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 18, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Unless this thing has recently been retro-bolted, then I couldn't for the life of me (literally) find anything remotely "runout" about this line. Anywhere.

Get. A. Sack. Then rope up for Birds of Fire and THEN talk to me about runouts....
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Aug 30, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

Linking this and the first pitch of the Broadmoor makes for a great long pitch with not too bad rope drag as long as you place a few long slings.
By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

For the people who say this route has no runout, you're such a stud! I'm also going to add another vote to say there is one bolt that is uncharacteristically runout, compare to the rest of the bolting. The moves getting there is not easy either, and you'll probably hit the blunt arete in line with the last bolt if you peel before clipping the next bolt. Definitely some injury potential there.

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