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Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Just in Time S 
Lie Detector S 
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YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: not sure
Page Views: 1,036
Submitted By: timoteo on Aug 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Crusher following the "run out" section....


This is an older route described in B. Gillett's "Rocky Mountain National Park" guidebook (2001). The physical crux is surmounting the initial overhanging, quartz ledges, but the mental one is a bit higher with at least 1 significant run-out, on 5.8 or .9 face climbing. This would be a nasty fall, hence the "R" rating.


The route is located about 20' left of "Maternal Damnation", at a significant section of creamy-pink quartz. A 60-meter rope will easily get you down.


The route has 8 protection bolts, and a 2-bolt anchor.

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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 5, 2009

The first part is easy and not the crux. The crux is hard 9 or maybe 10a on runout face. Eric backed out. I went up to save the gear and ended up down climbing 15 feet of 10a. I thought the route was bolted on lead.
By timoteo
Aug 10, 2009

I guess you can debate what is "hard" or "easy", depending on your strengths/weaknesses, but what you will need to finish this route is very steady nerves. By no means a "Bachar-Yerian", but injurious fall potential exists here!
By Brian Stefanovic
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 30, 2010

I'm just wondering why there isn't a bolt in that run out section. There is plenty of room for it. It feels as though the closer you get to the next bolt, the harder it gets. Of course, that could just be my nerves. I backed off and also down-climbed about 15ft.
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

The runout seems out of place, both for the route and for the crag. Not super hard climbing, but pretty dangerous fall potential, particularly considering that you're climbing on crystals that keep breaking off. Fun route nevertheless. I'd like to see another bolt in there for safety's sake.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 18, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Unless this thing has recently been retro-bolted, then I couldn't for the life of me (literally) find anything remotely "runout" about this line. Anywhere.

Get. A. Sack. Then rope up for Birds of Fire and THEN talk to me about runouts....
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