A nice gear route up a slabby face with plenty of hand and footholds. This route was first done decades ago and originally went to the top of the slab, but with the addition of chain anchors it is unlikely many people will climb the last ten feet since a walkoff/downclimb is required.
On the right slab of the Black Rose area, start about 5 feet to the right of the left edge of the slab area. Find a shallow, round dynamite hole and start up. Follow the small crack system more-or-less straight up to the chain anchors.
Just to the right of the “hole” between the two Black Rose slabs.
Small to medium nuts, a small cam or two, chain anchors (or go to the top and belay from there).
Easy climbing with tricky gear
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008
Well worth it. But I wish I had brought nuts (The gear, not the anatomy)! Go with nuts not cams.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jul 30, 2008
Really fun route. I've taken beginners on this thing a few times and they all could do it and enjoyed it. As crisco said, don't forget to take your nuts.
|By Garret Nuzzo-Jones|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 7, 2014
Pretty fun, but has a kind of alpine feel with how much loose rock there is in the cracks. Make sure your belayer has a helmet and doesn't stand right below you.