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Dynamic Duel 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: FFA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 1,545
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Dynamic Duel Goes left of the low orange streak an...

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Description 

A great line unfortunately marred by unnecessary gluing and chipping. Follow the crack system right of White Men Can't Jump (I can't either, I haven't done that route yet) to jug/rail then a few hard moves to the lip and a final mantel. Most folks jump from a drilled 2 finger pocket to the lip but enough crimpy edges and sidepulls exist to allow a truly free ascent at 5.13c or d. I'm working on it. Off-route holds include: 1. The big glued and bolted-on flake. 2. The reattached/ glued- on flake next to it. 3. The first drilled out finger jam. 4. The drilled 2 finger pocket. Those are the rules, now get to work!

Protection 

7 bolts.


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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 24, 2001

Just in case any other climbers get the idea that I modified this route, let me set the record straight. I don't chip routes. Anyone is welcome to check out the dozen or so 5.13 FAs or FFAs I've done in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek. One route has a reattached hold and a reinforced one. That route also has large drilled holds that I filled in. I consider Dynamic Duel to still be an aid climb and I encourage other climbers to rise to the challenge of climbing without chipped holds whatever the difficulty.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 7, 2001

Let me again assert my support for climbingboulder.com anti-chipping campaign by affirming that this route was clearly modified for "free climbing" purposes. I disagree with the format of the campaign but respect its intent.
By ?????
Aug 26, 2004

Yeah, only if you redpoint up to the lip and limply brush it with your hand as you plummet back to earth...but I heard if you mantel the lip you are no longer classified as ultralyte
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2004

Well, I stuck the lip hold with my left hand, then bumped my right to the crimp before falling, would you agree that it was a solid 12c redpoint, I would give it 12c/d if I matched both hands on the jug before falling.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2004

AC #2 would you by chance be the infamous author of the Boulder Canyon Sport and ADVENTURE climbing guidebook, Mark Rolofson ???? Because we have already read all your spray about redpointing up to the ___ bolt on all of your over-graded climbs. If you climb to the anchors you redpointed it, but if not, you did not do it....

with love,

Crusty, the Trad Monkey
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 11, 2004

Does this route involve wild slaps?
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Sep 7, 2008

Why is this route here, I thought there was a policy against this!