This squeeze-job makes for an enjoyable climb if you can ignore the contrivance of the bolt job. Presumably the route is "designed" to avoid various obvious jugs near the right arete, and the obvious splitter crack at the top, thus achieving the desried 5.12a grade. However, most normal climbers will use all of these obvious features, which are well within reach of the bolts, bringing the grade to the much more manageable 11b-ish range.
Begin as for The Prow, but avoid the obvious cracks to the right and head straight up the thin face. The crux hits on a thin patch of pockets getting from the 3rd bolt to the 4th. From here a series of difficult-to-ignore huecos head up 2 feet right of the bolt line. These huecos tend to lead the climber onto the arete, which is surely "off", but again, hard to ignore. It is possible to clip all of the lead bolts from teh arete. Head back left at some arbitrary point that is surely critical to the grade of the route. A splitter crack on the right can be used at this point for further assistance just below the anchor.
If you want to preserve the 12a grade, this is a 1 star contrived pile, but if you follow the natural line, this is a nice variation to the prow that adds some good techncial moves and avoids the intimidating roof finish.
Immediately right of Crackerjack and left of The Prow.
6 bolts, 2 BA.
Nearing the top of Dynabolic.
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a
Couldn't agree with Mono's description more. The entire way up this route, I found myself using the arete, but thinking that I was somehow off route because using the arete certainly isn't 12a. If you follow the natural line, this route is quite fun though.
|By Brian Quiter|
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 8, 2008
Ditto Mono and Jason: I would give this climb the old 'bomb' rating if you were to pay any attention to the guidebooks (which unfortunately, I did), but using the right side of the climb makes for fun 5.11 climbing.
Apparently, it can also provide entertaining photo ops.