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|Administrators:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Bill Duncan on Jul 7, 2013|
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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 7, 2013
Bill, I wonder if this crag is the same as that mentioned on the Ironsides page with a R->L:
Across the valley to the west:
The Professionals, 11, gear + bolts.
Sump, 10+, gear + bolt.
unknown, 8, bolts.
unknown, 8, 2 bolts + gear, 90'.
unknown, 10, 1-2p, bolts + gear, 190'.
unknown, 9, 1p, bolts + gear, 85'.
unknown, 8+, 1p, bolts, 85'.
unknown arete, 10, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 10+, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 8?, 1p.
Lump, 11, 1p, bolts.
Pump, 12, 1p, bolts.
Chump, 11, 1p, bolts, 30'.
Forrest Gump, 11-, 1p, bolts.
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Jul 9, 2013
|Hi Leo, Thanks to the link of the arete (Photo), I'm fairly certain Michael was referring to another group of routes on a medium-sized monolith shown in Photo. The ratings also seem to support this, as the routes on what I'm calling the West Slabs are very moderate in comparison. I'll get some better photos of the slabs. Of course, the FA team may have a name for this area, and I'm happy to change this temporary label whenever they communicate their info.|
By Matt Quinn
Mar 3, 2014
The one farthest to the right at the end of the ramp is, 2. "Tangled Up in Blue". It is two pitched, bolts and gear. The first pitch 5.6 NC, No Consensus, rap anchors at the top. The second pitch is maybe 5.7+ NC, rap anchors at the top. FA Tom Kohlmann/Matt Quinn. There is a 2nd pitch variation on this route that proceeds up a vertical wall right. It is in the 5.10 range, NC. Follow the bolts up and to an arete (crux) to anchors it shares with a separate climb we named "Boltergeist", Climb no. 1 which starts 100 feet southwesterly in a small canyon. The variation of route no. 2 was put up by Dan Hare/Rich Perch who did the first ascent.
The one on the ramp to just left of Route "2" is, 3. "Bear Mountain Picnic". It is two pitch with rap anchors. It may be 5.7+, NC. FA Eric Zschiesche/Donna Quinn. A note of caution---it has been a while since I have climb these climbs so I do not know their present condition as to bolts/anchors, etc. The routes are bolts and gear. We used 70 meter ropes. Matt Quinn
By Dennis of Mazo
Oct 30, 2015
Hey, this is a great cliff! I have done most of these routes, and they are fun if you are looking for moderate routes in a cool setting. Once you cross the pass, you leave the ATV noise behind, and the bullets aren't even whizzing over your head anymore. I think you might get by with a 60 meter for a lot of these climbs, but may I recommend: Enjoy the adventure, maybe carry a rap rope and a light rack, most of these climbs are 5.7-5.10 and bolted where needed.
My friend Tom has provided Bernard Gillett with detailed info on this area and others which which he has developed with Matt, myself and others. Look for his next book if you enjoy this area.