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The Dylan Wall leads right out of the 4th pitch of the Scenic Cruise and connects with the second pitch of Journey Home. The independent pitches are 5.11+, 5.12-, and 5.7. The 5.11+ pitch has some scaly rock, but it seldom effects the climbing. The 5.12- pitch is technical and on stellar rock. Combine this with Twisted for a bigger day.
P1: (after the Scenic Cruise) Climb right from the belay and join the crack system on a pedestal. Thin pro and climbing leads to a shallow, leaning dihedral. 5.11 PG-13. Climb through steep hands and fingers to a corner with a jammed block. 5.11+. The belay requires a 3 Camalot, 1/4" piece, and a medium nut. 140'
P2: Climb a thin dihedral to a fixed nut and pin. Technical moves gain a thin crack finish. 5.12-. 70'
P3: Up and down on 5.7 traversing right leads to the middle of pitch 2 on Journey Home. 90'
Pitch 2 and 3 can be combined, but the second will get a pretty loose belay on the the crux moves.
Start on Scenic Cruise and belay half way through the 4th pitch on a ledge. It is easy to see the diagonal crack from the ground, but the belay is NOT where it first leaves the Scenic Cruise , but another 30' up on a ledge that can be traversed to join the crack.
Set of "RPs" and stoppers. One set micro cams. Doubles from #0.3 to 2 Camalots. One #3 and #4 Camalot.
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
The posted topo is right on, the photo in the guidebook is wrong and shows leaving Scenic Cruise too low.
I broke the 140' 5.11+ pitch into two, with a belay just where the peg band starts. This works out well if you want a closer belay and more gear for the overhanging choss sections. The initial bit after leaving scenic cruise looks unprotected, but gear shows up as you get into it.
The worst rock on the route is definitely just AFTER the peg band, where you've got crumbling smears for feet while doing 'crunchy' underclings and layaways through roofs. Rock improves dramatically just above this.
There's not much reliable pro on the first 20' of the crux pitch, though this section, up to the pin and RP, isn't harder than 5.10. The pin and RP, equalized with a screamer, is probably the best bet to avoid a factor 2 fall.
|By Jay Brown|
Sep 22, 2010
What is this "Charm School Boutique" that heads up off of "Dylan Wall"?
|By chris Kalous|
Sep 23, 2010
Wouldn't you like to know? How does 5.13 on Crack-'n-ups sound? What's a Crack-'n-up? It's pro yer grandpa used to use- and Jeff Achey still does.
|By Allen Hill|
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Sep 23, 2010
I still use them, Chris, from time to time. It's got to be the perfect place for the placement, though. The first "beaks" were Crank in ups with one side sawed off.
|By chris Kalous|
Oct 24, 2010
Yessiree, I have pounded in a few sawed off ones myself. And used them for "pro" but not on despo 5.13. Achey claims hand placed beaks work as well, since you can't get the old levered true Cracknups. I was mostly just giving Achey a hard time, because I can and he never reads this anyway, and even if he did, I think I could take him despite the fact that one of his pecs is as big as Jay Brown's brand new baby boy, Sam.